Just when I thought I’d already seen the very best of the many magnificent waterfalls along the Cumberland Plateau, I hiked the Greeter Falls loop. Slowly but surely, I’m making progress toward my goal of hiking every inch of trail in South Cumberland State Park. I’ve hiked about 30 unique miles here so far, but I’ve got at least 60 more to go. This is my local hiking passion project. Not many people outside of Tennessee and its neighboring states have heard of South Cumberland State Park. It’s often unfairly overshadowed by the state’s other incredible hiking destinations, like Big South Fork and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Both of those places are exquisite in their own ways, but there’s a much more secluded and intimate gem located less than two hours outside of Nashville. South Cumberland State Park is home to several of the state’s best hikes that you’ve never heard of (also Fiery Gizzard, which deserves its status as a household name, but it’s much more heavily trafficked than several equally gorgeous trails in the area). In addition to Fiery Gizzard, I’d hiked Big Creek Gulf and Buggytop Cave before I hiked Greeter Falls in December 2019, my last new hike of the decade.
Completing my 2019 New Year’s Resolution with a waterfall hike at South Cumberland State Park felt like an appropriate move, so on Christmas Eve, I woke up with Christmas morning energy levels and hit the trail. I hiked a mild two-mile loop that included a spur trail to Blue Hole, a beautiful swimming hole along Firescald Creek. I definitely wasn’t jumping into any creeks in late December, but the area was pleasant and worth the short detour. The water was moving pretty quickly, likely due to recent heavy rains. Even if it’d been a hot summer day, I’d have been skeptical about swimming at Blue Hole based on the current I observed, and more importantly, its precarious proximity to the top of Greeter Falls. Water levels are usually lower in the summer months, however, and this sparkling creek certainly would have seemed more inviting under different circumstances. I was lucky enough to be alone at Blue Hole, but I’m sure the scene is much less pristine and quiet on a hot Saturday in August.
Back on the main trail to Greeter Falls, my solitude continued. Throughout my hike, I only encountered one other group, a father and two relatively young children. The trail to Greeter Falls, including the spur to Blue Hole, wouldn’t present much of a challenge for young or inexperienced hikers. It’s one of those hikes where minimal effort offers maximum reward. If you’re looking for a longer hike or more of a challenge, the trail continues beyond Greeter Falls, and after a mile or so, it connects with the Big Creek Gulf and Big Creek Rim trails at the Alum Gap campground. I’ve hiked the rugged eight-mile loop that these two trails form, but from the access point at Stone Door, on the opposite end of the loop from Alum Gap (If you’re interested, you can read about that hike here).
I wasn’t looking for a long and solitary journey into the wild on Christmas Eve, and I couldn’t have been happier with the gorgeous views packed into this short hike. Greeter Falls is actually a set of two concurrent waterfalls, and while both are gorgeous, the lower of the two falls certainly outshines its upper counterpart. A spur off the main trail provides access to both, and there’s a sign that provides clear and foolproof directions. The trail to the upper falls is fairly easy, descending mildly over a rocky path before the trees open up and offer an expansive view of a broad, angular waterfall behind an oddly placed, massive boulder. I can’t imagine how the boulder got there. It’s much too large to have been placed by anything but nature, but it appears so out of context among its surroundings and obscures a huge section of the waterfall. It looks completely unnatural, but there’s no other explanation for its placement. In a way, sights like this one make me appreciate the randomness of nature. Sure, the views would be more photo friendly without this massive boulder in front of the falls, but I’d have plenty of unobstructed views of the lower section of Greeter Falls in my immediate future.
I started moving back from the upper falls towards the split in the trail that leads down to the lower falls. Almost immediately after the split, the trail steadily descends along the bottom of a high rock wall over loose rubble before abruptly ending at an iron staircase. The staircase spirals tightly down the side of a nearly vertical rock wall and then connects with two more iron stair cases that lead down to the edge of the brilliant blue waters below Greeter Falls. The lower section is much taller than its upper counterpart and flows with much more force, creating an impressively beautiful scene when viewed from below. It appears as if the mighty waters carved out part of the cliffs over time, creating a bowl beneath, as indicated by the pattern of horizontal impressions running along the curved cliff walls surrounding the falls. The water was high and cold when I visited, so I couldn’t get closer to the falls than the outcropping of rocks at the bottom of the staircase. I’d imagine that these waters are safe for swimming on warmer days and would provide a sublime reprieve from the intense heat of Tennessee summers.
After ascending the iron staircase and returning to the main trail, I ventured onward to Boardtree Falls, a small but lovely waterfall accessible via a short, but very steep, spur. I mean no disrespect, but Boardtree Falls doesn’t compare to Greeter Falls. However, it’s an easy and worthwhile detour, and I’m all for maximizing my time on any trail by taking every spur available, as long as time and conditions allow for it. I considered hiking the extra 2 miles roundtrip to Alum Gap, to take in some views overlooking the expansive gulf. I ultimately decided against it and returned to the trailhead, choosing the road home to Christmas Eve with my husband and the dog instead. All things considered, I can’t imagine a better finish to two years of hiking a new trail every month, and I’m so excited to share my tales from the trails in 2020. Things are off to an amazing start, and I know they’ll only get better from here.
