The Grandfather Trail: The Most Technical Hike East of the MS River

Touted as the most technical hike east of the Mississippi River that doesn’t require climbing gear, the Grandfather Trail in North Carolina offers an enticing challenge for adventurers who want to channel their inner American Ninja Warrior in the wild. Affectionately referred to as the chutes and ladders trail, this natural obstacle course traverses 2.5 miles (one way) of rugged terrain and thrilling exposure to the summit of Calloway Peak, the highest of a series of peaks along Grandfather Ridge at 5,964 ft. As the moniker suggests, the trail requires hikers to utilize numerous ladders and ropes on the way to the top. If you’re into scrambles and comfortable with exposure, this trail is absolutely exhilarating and offers stunning views of the surrounding Appalachian wilderness.

traversing the Grandfather Mountain ridge, with MacRae Peak ahead on my right, and Calloway Peak on the left in the distance

I live in Tennessee, a rare state that does not charge admission fees to state parks, ever. It’s one of many things I love about my home state, but it’s also set a low bar for what I consider to be “expensive” admission to parks in other places. The Grandfather Mountain Nature Park charges $22 per adult and $9 per child for entry at the park’s main access point. I’m not saying the price isn’t worth it, but this is the most expensive admission fee I’ve paid to enter any state or national park, since national parks charge per vehicle and not per person. I’ve paid $35 for entry to national parks, but this covers unlimited re-entry for me and anyone in my vehicle for a whole week. With this in mind, I think it’s really important to consider where those dollars are going, and in the case of this stunning park, 100% of admission fees are invested into the preservation of the park and its wild inhabitants. There are longer alternative options for hiking to the top of Calloway Peak, for those who want to avoid the admission fee, but these routes also bypass the daunting features that make the Grandfather Trail so unique. The Grandfather Mountain Nature Park offers the best access to the Grandfather Trail and the family friendly amenities close to the visitor center. Consider the admission fee as an investment in memories you won’t soon forget, and more importantly, an investment in the future of this spectacular place as a home for wildlife and an unforgettable destination for future generations of explorers. You can learn more about the organization that supports this park here.*

Most people who enter the park on the road that provides access to the Grandfather trailhead aren’t actually planning to hike this trail. There’s a visitor center across the parking lot from the trailhead and sweeping views along the winding road to the crest of this imposing ridge. There’s an attraction at the visitor center called Mile High Swinging Bridge that’s probably exactly what its name suggests. I may never know, because my husband and I decided to devote all of our daylight hours to the Grandfather trail instead. We hiked this trail in late November, and in warmer and busier months, I think hikers are required to park in a lot below the trailhead that served as our starting point. This may add a mile or so to the trail’s roundtrip distance, along with notable elevation gain on the way up. Leave your kids, dogs, and friends who are afraid of heights at home for this one. They’ll thank you for it later.

Andy and I travelled to Banner Elk, NC for a weekend getaway to celebrate his birthday, and after we climbed Mt Elbert in Colorado on my birthday a couple of years ago, it only felt appropriate to spend one of his birthdays on top of a mountain too.

After half a mile of modest elevation gain, the trail forks, just beyond a gorgeous overlook at Grandfather Gap. This marks the turnaround point for many hikers. For those that choose to press on, the fork to the right continues along the Grandfather Trail and wastes very little time before manifesting its technical and treacherous reputation through a series of ladders and cables that weave over and under the massive rock ledges that dominate the terrain along the ridge. The route is well-marked and easy to navigate, but it traverses several exposed surfaces that require what I like to refer to as “intentional hiking”. This means that every step is critical to the success of the next one, and moving forward requires unrelenting focus and determination. This pattern repeats itself several times along the way up to the summit of MacRae Peak (5,845 ft), accessible by an unconvincing ladder extending at a nearly vertical trajectory above the trail. I expected the climbing to end at the top of the ladder, but was instead greeted (or taunted, if we’re being honest) by an ominously thin cable that I gripped with white knuckles in chilling 25 MPH winds as I finished the precipitous climb to the top of MacRae Peak.

The wind howled loudly as Andy and I emerged breathless and triumphant on the entirely exposed summit. Luckily, we were the only people up there, because space is very limited. The Grandfather Ridge towers prominently over its surroundings, so sitting on the summit of MacRae Peak, with majestic views for miles and miles in every direction, felt like sitting on top of the world. In my humble opinion, these views are the best of many spectacular ones on the entire hike, but they’re also the riskiest to attain. The final ascent to the top of MacRae Peak is not for everyone, so it’s important to trust your instincts and avoid overcommitting to a potentially dangerous situation.

immaculate views from the top of MacRae Peak (5,845 ft)

The thrillingly rugged terrain continues beyond MacRae Peak as the trail traverses the ridge, ascending and descending constantly. Although Calloway Peak lies only two and a half miles from the visitor center at Mile High Swinging Bridge, progress comes slowly. In addition to topography, the trail becomes incredible narrow in many places, especially those with ladders and cables. This makes two way traffic difficult. The Grandfather trail receives significant foot traffic, despite its brutal reputation, so expect to spend some time stopping to wait for hikers coming from the opposite direction to pass. According to the unwritten rules of hiker etiquette, the ascending hiker has the right-of-way, but use your best judgment and communicate with other hikers. It sounds like common sense, but small acts of courtesy and adaptability go a long way in preventing accidents.

After more exposed scrambling, the trail approaches an aggressive ascent through a jagged series of boulders, the final technical challenge that lies between hikers who’ve made it this far and the highest point on the Grandfather Ridge, Calloway Peak. Although the inevitable scramble looks intimidating from the bottom of the gully, it’s not so bad once you start climbing. The route is straightforward and moves upward through a notch. The exposure continues along the ridge beyond the notch for a brief stretch, but the trail eventually retreats into the cover of those sacred Appalachian pines before nonchalantly emerging on top of Calloway Peak. Although the views from Grandfather Mountain’s highest summit aren’t as expansive as the ones from the top of MacRae Peak, they’re just as stunning. The tree cover on the western side of the peak partially blocked the brutal winds that precede winter in Appalachia, and the views to the east from the summit make the ascent entirely worthwhile.

the ascent through the notch below the summit of Calloway Peak

We descended along the same route until reaching a turnoff for the Underwood Trail, a short segment that descends below the ridge line and bypasses the route to MacRae Peak. We’d done some research prior to our hike and knew that this trail would reconnect with the Grandfather Trail without adding any significant distance. Eager to see what this new segment offered, and equally eager for a break from the wind and exposure along the chutes and ladders surrounding MacRae Peak, we followed the Underwood Trail for a half mile or so before reconnecting with the Grandfather Trail near the Grandfather Gap overlook. From here, the trail modestly descends through the dense forest and returns to the trailhead.

The Underwood Trail connects to the Grandfather Trail on each end and descends below the ridge to avoid the wind and exposure of the trail’s most treacherous section. The views aren’t so bad either.

I can’t post about my experience on the Grandfather Trail without acknowledging that anyone with legitimate climbing experience (I have none) who’s reading this is likely scoffing at my ignorance for overusing the word “technical” to describe a trail that doesn’t require any technical experience at all. To be perfectly clear, although this trail does not require technical climbing experience or gear, it’s a strenuous and highly exposed hike along unforgiving terrain. If you’ve got the mettle for it, the effort and anxiety pays off in a big way, but observe caution when embarking on this (or any) trail. Avoid the crowds by hiking in the offseason, like we did, but be aware of adverse conditions like wind or snow and plan accordingly. The Grandfather Trail presents an opportunity for adventure unlike any other on this side of the Mississippi, as long as you manage your expectations wisely.

views from the highest point on the grandfather Ridge, Calloway Peak (5,964 ft)

*This post has been revised as of August 5, 2021 to reflect some helpful and clarifying information graciously offered by Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation.

Appalachian Mountain Trails: Waynesville, North Carolina

It took me a while to settle into the lifestyle, but time has taught me to appreciate the perks of working from home. I’ve had to establish some boundaries between my work life and my home life, now that they now exist under the same roof, but I’m grateful for the flexibility that the present circumstances have added to my daily routine. In a post-COVID world, I’ll have the freedom to travel to and work from anywhere with a WiFi connection, and I’m genuinely excited about the endless possibilities that this presents for me. Until then, I’m taking advantage of opportunities to travel domestically when I can safely do so, knowing that I can work remotely as much as I need to while I’m away from my new office, which doubles as my dining room table.

Looking Glass Rock, high above the hazy emerald waves of the Appalachian Mountains

By packing my MacBook and blending in a couple of days of working remotely, I recently spent a week in the Appalachian Mountains of North Carolina while only taking two days of actual vacation time. My parents had planned a trip to Banff, but when COVID derailed those plans, they changed their destination to Waynesville, NC (reasonably drivable from my hometown in Mississippi) and invited my husband, brother, sister-in-law, and me to stay with them in a lakeside cabin nestled halfway between Asheville and Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Naturally, I spent every spare moment exploring the area’s abundant wild spaces. Waynesville, NC offers quick access to hundreds of miles of hiking trails in Great Smoky Mountains National Park and Pisgah National Forest, two expansive Appalachian wildernesses that host millions of visitors every year. Although the vast majority of those visitors stick to scenic drives along the parkways and paved trails to crowded waterfalls and hazy mountain overlooks, the hiking options are endless in number and variety for those who want to get their boots dirty. I hiked three trails, each one gorgeous, unique, and very worthwhile.

Smoky Mountain views from Charlie’s Bunion on the Appalachian Trail

Looking Glass Rock

My husband’s parents have spent a significant amount of time in this region, and they recommended hiking to the top of Looking Glass Rock in Pisgah National Forest. I thought it sounded appealing, but I was already struggling to narrow down my list of many incredible hiking options in the area and didn’t commit to any specific trails before our trip. While driving along the Blue Ridge Parkway with my family on our first day in North Carolina, we stopped at a scenic roadside overlook. Amid the velvety sea of evergreen that covers the Appalachian Mountains, I noticed a massive, exposed section of smooth rock, rising above its forested surroundings like a silver buoy among ocean waves. A sign at the overlook informed me that this enchanting anomaly was Looking Glass Rock, and I instantly decided to hike to the top of it the following day.

Looking Glass Rock, as viewed from an overlook along the Blue Ridge Parkway

My husband, Andy, and I drove along a winding road surrounded by the lush green canopy of Pisgah National Forest before arriving at the trailhead. From Waynesville, the drive to the trailhead takes about an hour via Highway 276. I lost cell service many miles before the trailhead, and we passed a tiny handful of scattered facilities on the outskirts of Waynesville before leaving civilization entirely behind us and entering a remote and sprawling area within Pisgah National Forest. The weather was rainy, but we saw many other cars along the road and parked in clusters around the dozens of trailheads accessible from this scenic highway.

Because of morning rain, Andy and I started our hike early in the afternoon. After arriving at the trailhead during a beak between showers, we eagerly started moving up the trail, only to encounter a torrential downpour a few minutes later. We retreated to the car to wait for the weather to pass. In late summer months, sporadic afternoon showers occur frequently in Tennessee and North Carolina. As Nashville residents, we weren’t surprised by the pop-up storm and knew it’d pass quickly. It did, although it left a very muddy trail in its wake. However, the rain likely deterred many hikers from this popular trail, and we were surprised by the relatively light foot traffic on a Sunday afternoon.

The trail climbs about 1,700 feet over three miles from the trailhead to the summit of Looking Glass Rock. The elevation gain is consistently dispersed across numerous thoughtfully placed switchbacks, which made this hike much less challenging than it appeared to be when viewed from the overlook along the Blue Ridge Parkway. However, the mud complicated the journey, as it tends to do, so we weren’t able to move quickly as we’d have been able to on a dry trail. We encountered more scattered showers on the way to the top, but as soon as we emerged from the thick shroud of the forest and onto the exposed surface of the summit, the rain stopped and we encountered the most magnificent view of the Appalachian Mountains that I’ve ever seen.

hazy views from Looking Glass Rock as a storm moves across the mountains

The views along the way to the top of Looking Glass Rock, although pretty and peaceful, don’t include any expansive overlooks or standout features. Andy and I thoroughly enjoyed the trail, which moves through a forest floor blanketed with an endless sea of ferns and flowering mountain laurels. This hike, however, indisputably culminates at the top of Looking Glass Rock. The panoramic mountain views are entirely shrouded until they’re directly in front of you, and the sprawling summit can accommodate a decent crowd without feeling crowded. There’s no definitive edge, so the drop-off can be really deceptive if you’re not paying attention, due to the smooth and wavy texture of the rock. Regardless, this place is absolutely special and iconic among Appalachian day hikes.

Max Patch

Located about an hour’s drive north of Waynesville and barely west of the border between Tennessee and North Carolina, Max Patch is a grassy bald that provides stunning 360 degree views of the surrounding mountain scenery. Driving to the trailhead requires a lengthy, slow ascent along a bumpy gravel road that would be difficult to manage without a 4WD vehicle, although we did see a couple of small cars in the parking lot. There’s no bathroom at the trailhead, and cell service is weak at best. Max Patch lies on the Appalachian Trail, and many thru and section hikers pass through this area on a daily basis. Camping is permitted on the summit of Max Patch as well, but it’s become controversial in recent years. The area receives heavy foot traffic because the short trail to the top requires minimal effort to access truly magnificent and expansive views, but there’s no permit system in place to regulate camping and no ranger presence to enforce leave-no-trace principles. Sadly, Max Patch endures some abuse from careless visitors, so please be aware of your human footprint when you visit and practice responsible outdoor ethics.

Max Patch was covered in fluffy white wildflowers when we hiked here in late July.

My parents and I hiked to the summit via a 1.5 mile loop with modest elevation gain. The trail was maintained well and easy to follow, and the views from the top extend for miles and miles in every direction, across the rugged peaks and valleys of Tennessee and North Carolina. We hiked clockwise and reached the summit of Max Patch after only 0.6 miles of hiking. After taking some time to enjoy the views and the cool breeze on a summer day, we descended via the Appalachian Trail and returned to the parking lot .

My parents aren’t avid hikers, but they thoroughly enjoyed this short, scenic expedition. Nothing could have adequately prepared us for the views from the top, and I understand why so many people choose to visit this place. We visited during the day, but I’m sure the views are incredible at sunrise and sunset, which explains Max Patch’s popularity as a camping destination. We visited on a weekday, and I’d advise others to do the same to avoid the crowds.

Aren’t my parents cute? We loved the time outside with each other as much as we loved the views.

Charlie’s Bunion via the Appalachian Trail

I began my hike to Charlie’s Bunion at Newfound Gap, one of the most popular (and crowded) overlooks in the Smokies. To be honest, I felt really discouraged at the trailhead. I knew that this trail was popular, but I thought that hiking it on a Tuesday morning would mitigate the crowds. I was wrong. The views from Newfound Gap are absolutely incredible, so this easily accessible overlook draws flocks of tourists. I thought about leaving and choosing a more obscure trail, but I haven’t done much hiking in Great Smoky Mountains National Park and don’t know about many trails besides the popular ones. The region is just far enough from Nashville to be out of reach for a day trip, and I regret to admit that I’ve never made it a priority to plan an overnight hiking trip in the Smokies.

Despite the crowds, something about hiking the relatively minuscule four-mile section of the Appalachian Trail between Newfound Gap and Charlie’s Bunion captivated me. This segment of the AT runs along the state line between Tennessee and North Carolina, and the views from Charlie’s Bunion are widely considered to be among the very best in the Smokies. The views along the way to Charlie’s Bunion are dominated by ferns, exposed roots, and a canopy of greenery. There aren’t any expansive vistas, but the trail is entirely shaded, which can’t be taken for granted in the sweltering heat of late summer months.

Mossy Rocks and dense forest views dominate the section of the Appalachian Trail to Charlie’s Bunion.

The trail ascends roughly 1,700 feet over four miles on the approach to Charlie’s Bunion, and the route is easily discernible every step of the way. Upon reaching the overlook at Charlie’s Bunion, I felt immensely humbled by the views around me that were almost entirely obscured throughout my hike. Charlie’s Bunion actually lies beyond the overlook and requires an airy scramble. I managed to climb out to the bunion safely, but I’ll admit that my heart was pounding uncontrollably throughout the climb, as I stared into the abyss of drop-offs several hundred feet high on three sides of this narrow, uneven outcropping. I was lucky enough to encounter another hiker who offered to take photos from the safety of the overlook, and none of the other dozen or so hikers I saw during my time at Charlie’s Bunion actually climbed out onto the bunion.

Charlie’s Bunion, as viewed from the edge of the overlook

There’s a smaller upper overlook about fifty or sixty feet above Charlie’s Bunion, and it’s accessible via a short spur trail just past the initial turn-off to the main overlook. There’s also the option to climb up directly from the main overlook. I wouldn’t have realized that this option existed unless I’d seen someone else do it when I first arrived at Charlie’s Bunion. I followed this climber’s route, and the short (although entirely vertical) ascent somehow felt less intimidating than the climb out onto the bunion. The views from the upper overlook are gorgeous, but not any better than the views from the main overlook. The only benefit of the upper overlook is privacy. There’s only enough space to accommodate four or five people due to dense vegetation.

As ominous-looking storm clouds rolled in and darkened the peaks and valleys around me, I left Charlie’s Bunion and backtracked down the Appalachian Trail at a quick pace. I returned to the parking lot at Newfound Gap minutes before the rain started. Roundtrip, I completed this eight-mile hike in a little over four hours, including time for short water breaks and roughly thirty minutes at Charlie’s Bunion. I didn’t see any snakes or bears on this hike (or at all during this trip), but I crossed paths with another hiker who said he’d seen a black bear about twenty or thirty yards from the trail close to Charlie’s Bunion. Bear sightings are very common in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, so it’s important to remain vigilant and practice bear safety while hiking in this region.

A final thought from Max Patch… Sometimes, it’s tempting to break the rules, but this hike wasn’t one of them.

Appalachian Mountain Trails: Burnsville, North Carolina

President’s Day is a special day when we put our political differences aside to celebrate a universal American joy: a Monday without work. Nobody crushes work-free Mondays like America, and I’m here for it. I’m especially here for it when it presents an opportunity for me to travel without burning vacation days. Andy and I had been talking about hiking in the Appalachian Mountains of North Carolina for years, but we never made it a priority. The mountains of North Carolina are just far enough away to make a weekend trip seem like a stretch without taking off a day or two on either side, but we also tend to save our precious PTO days for longer trips to places further away that we don’t have a chance to visit as often. The long weekend presented the perfect conditions for a quick getaway to Burnsville, North Carolina, a remote and sleepy town nestled deep in the Appalachian Mountain wilderness.

Andy and I enjoying views from the summit of Mount Craig, the second highest peak in the eastern United States

Andy and I had both been to North Carolina many times, but we’d only been there together once, and I’d never been to Burnsville or the majestic wilderness areas surrounding the town. Burnsville offers quick access to many gorgeous hiking trails and a wide array of other outdoor activities in the middle of a seemingly endless sea of brilliant blue mountains and dense evergreen forests. Located less than an hour’s drive north of Asheville, Burnsville provides a quieter alternative and a more immersive experience in the mountain wilderness than what we’d have found in one of North Carolina’s more popular mountain destinations. Asheville is an amazing and incredibly worthwhile place to visit, and I’d recommend it to anyone considering a trip to North Carolina. However, we wanted to go somewhere where there’s not much to do unless you’re outside exploring, and Burnsville is the kind of place that has one grocery store and zero restaurants open after 7:00 PM in the off season. In our twenties, we’d have been bored, but in our (very, very, somewhat early) thirties, we were in heaven.

views from the summit of Hawksbill Mountain, the exhilarating sunset hike that Andy and I took shortly after arriving in North Carolina

We explored two mountain trails in two days on this trip to North Carolina, but we could have spent two months in Burnsville without running out of new and beautiful hiking trails. After driving into our Appalachian Mountain destination on Saturday morning, we settled into our Airbnb on the outskirts of Burnsville, a surprisingly charming basement apartment below a retired couple’s gorgeous mountain cabin. Over the past couple of years, I’ve become increasingly impressed with retired couples who convert their basements into chic one bedroom apartments and rent them out on Airbnb. It’s a genius move, and when Andy and I retire to Telluride, CO in 2055, maybe we’ll have the opportunity to play host to future generations of weekend adventurers.

By the time we’d unloaded at the Airbnb made a quick grocery run, we only had a few hours of daylight left. I spent most of my time in the car on the way to North Carolina that morning researching hiking trails in the area and weighing our options against the estimated amount of daylight we’d have by the time we arrived at the trailhead and the amount of time I thought it’d take to hike the trail. I call this “geographic math”, which apparently means something different to real mathematicians. However, I often use this technique to choose hiking trails when scenery, seasonality, and level of difficulty aren’t enough to narrow down my options. I like to maximize my experience on hiking trails, especially when traveling, and that usually requires some planning in advance.

Watching the sunset form this peak felt so special and so unique. The vibrant colors reflecting off the mountains seemed so enchanting in this pre-dusk time.

Hawksbill Mountain Trail

Ultimately, Andy and I opted for a sunset hike to the summit of Hawksbill Mountain, and I’m so happy that we did. Sunset hikes, especially in the mountains, can be difficult to find and execute safely. Watching a sunset from the top of a mountain, breathless after a steep climb, offers tremendous reward for your efforts. The experience feels much more meaningful and satisfying than watching a sunset from a mountaintop or overlook that can be reached by car. The tricky part, however, is hiking back down in the dark. Luckily, daylight isn’t like a light switch that’s either on or off and never anywhere in between, and going down usually takes less time than going up. With all of this in mind, it’s important to select a sunset hike that suits your comfort level, and when in doubt, choose a short one.

The hike to the summit of Hawksbill Mountain, aptly named for the outline of its peak (or should I say… beak?! OK, that’s my only attempt at a pun this time, I promise) is only two miles, roundtrip. As you may suspect, the trail is steep, entirely and without exception. It’s manageable though, and we saw several small children and smaller dogs on our way to the top. Because we hiked here on a Saturday, and at sunset, we certainly weren’t alone on the trail, but the summit is a sprawling and craggy space that provides 360 degree views of the surrounding Linville Gorge Wilderness in Pisgah National Forest. Hawksbill Mountain measures 4,009 feet, which may not sound like much compared to the thousands of peaks two or three times as high in the western United States. The Appalachian Mountains hold a different kind of beauty, a pastoral simplicity that manifests itself in peaks that resemble ocean waves, both in color and texture. Having a front row seat to this rare landscape, at sunset nonetheless, provided a humbling reminder that unique and breathtaking mountain scenery exists much closer to our home in Nashville, TN than some might think.

gorgeous sunset views from the summit of Hawksbill Mountain

Mount Mitchell: Deep Gap Trail

On our second day in Burnsville, we decided to take the one hour drive from our Airbnb to Mount Mitchell State Park, home to America’s highest peak east of the Mississippi River. Although it’s possible to hike to the top of Mount Mitchell (6,683 ft) via several different trails, this summit is also accessible by car. The parking lot rests about 200 vertical feet below the peak, and a short walk up a wide paved path completes the easiest route to the top.

I know I just gushed over the rewards of a summit hike, so the fact that we drove to the top of Mount Mitchell may seem to contradict everything I said earlier about the significance of a summit that’s earned on foot and not gifted by a paved road. I wholeheartedly stand by that. However, I also have mixed emotions about putting in the effort to climb a mountain, reach the summit, and then share the views with toddlers and tour buses. It doesn’t diminish the view from the top, but it does compromise the purpose of the climb, for me anyways. My philosophy is this: If I can drive to the top, I will do that with gratitude, and I will reserve the limited time and energy that I have for summit hikes to the peaks that can’t be reached by car.

Appalachian Mountain views from the cold and windy summit of Mount Mitchell in February

We drove the the top of Mount Mitchell to visit the highest peak in the eastern United States, but the summit also served as our starting point for a breathtaking hike along the ridge line that connects Mount Mitchell to neighboring peaks including Mount Craig, the second highest peak in the eastern United States. Black Mountain Crest Trail, also known as Deep Gap Trail, extends more than eleven miles (one way) north from the summit of Mount Mitchell, ascending and descending as it traverses a string of some of the highest peaks in the Appalachian Mountain range. We hiked out to Cattail Peak (6,584 ft), which lies only three miles from the trailhead near the top of Mount Mitchell but crosses three additional summits in between. In the order of their appearance on the trail, these mountains include: Mount Craig (6,647 ft), Big Tom (6,581 ft), and Balsam Cone (6,611 ft). Although the summits of Mount Craig and Big Tom provided more expansive views across the rugged mountain wilderness than Balsam Cone and Cattail Peak, I enjoyed the evergreen canopy that shrouded the latter two peaks. Partially due to altitude and mostly due to hot, wet Southern air, the mountains around Burnsville don’t have tree lines. The dense woodland blanket that covers the Appalachian Mountain range from top to bottom is part of what makes these mountains so visually stunning.

Appalachian scenery form the summit of Mount Craig resembles a vast ocean of rolling hills and peaks across the surrounding wilderness.

Have you ever wondered why these mountains look so smooth and brilliantly blue? Brace yourselves for some sweet nature science, y’all. When viewed from afar, the mountains of the southern Appalachian range, including the Smokies and the Blue Ridge mountains, appear to be blue because of a hydrocarbon released by the trees covering these slopes: isoprene. Some trees emit more isoprene than others, and oak trees, abundant in the southeastern United States, release isoprene like Michael Scott releases “that’s what she said” one-liners. These isoprene molecules react with other molecules in the moisture-heavy air surrounding these mountains to create that alluring haze that blurs lines between peaks. When light from the sun hits this haze, it reflects a rainbow of colors, literally, because sunlight reflecting off moisture in the air creates actual rainbows. The human eye interprets blue more easily than almost any other color found in nature (it’s not a coincidence that skies and oceans are also blue), especially from a distance. Therefore, we see blue mountains. It’s amazing, right? You’re welcome.

Science is neat, but that’s not what I was thinking about during mine and Andy’s blissful long weekend in North Carolina. I kept thinking, why did it take us so long to do this, and when can we come back? North Carolina provided a wonderful combination of the intimacy and seclusion of my favorite close to home in Tennessee and the immense and imposing beauty of mountain landscapes I’ve hiked through in the western United States. Hiking these trails felt comfortable and exotic at the same time, and I can’t wait to return and explore more of this mountain paradise.

perhaps the most magnificent sunset I’ve ever seen