This is a story about a hike that almost didn’t happen. My friend, Megan, and I travelled to southern Utah on our way to the north rim of the Grand Canyon, and we passed through Zion National Park. We planned to spend a day or two at Zion, but due to so many factors (mostly COVID, but also toxic bacteria in Virgin River and trail closures due to rock slides), we didn’t expect to do much more than pass through on our way to hike the most remote and difficult trail in the Grand Canyon (more to come on that in my next post). I can’t even remember which trail we’d planned to hike at Zion after our options became so involuntarily limited in the days leading up to our trip, but we were excited nonetheless. Zion National Park is iconic and gorgeous, and even when the must-do trails for first time visitors aren’t an option, I’m sure every hike in this park promises breathtaking views.
After entering the park, we boarded the shuttle to the now forgotten trail that we intended to hike. If you’re planning to visit Zion, put some advance research into how the shuttle system works, because tickets are limited by design, to protect the park’s fragile ecosystem (always) and to maintain COVID safety protocol (currently). While we were on the shuttle, we overheard someone seated behind us talking about their hike to the top of Angel’s Landing the previous day. This caught our attention, because we thought that the upper portion of this trail was closed due to COVID, based on the park’s website and AllTrails. Angel’s Landing is the most famous trail among countless incredible hiking options at Zion National Park and considered by many to be one of the very best hikes in America. However, climbing the upper section of this trail requires holding onto chains for support while traversing treacherously exposed sections of rocky terrain, hundreds of feet above the bottom of the canyon. Needless to say, social distancing isn’t an option and there’s simply no way to climb to the top without touching the same chains that hundreds of other hands have also recently touched.
After admitting to eavesdropping, Megan and I learned from the other bus passenger that the trail had just reopened a few days earlier and that the park intentionally avoided publicizing the news in hopes that foot traffic on this popular trail would remain light. Angel’s Landing should be on every thrill-seeking hiker’s bucket list, and 2020 has provided resounding evidence that life doesn’t guarantee or owe us anything. After a brief discussion and very little hesitation, Megan and I decided that we could not turn down the opportunity to hike this iconic trail, despite the risks. I’ve been careful and deferential about COVID protocols throughout this pandemic, but honestly, I followed my heart to the top of Angel’s Landing, with hand sanitizer and a mask in tow, and I have absolutely no regrets.
Bottom to top, this hike packs in magnificent views. There isn’t a single section of this trail that won’t make your Instagram followers drool with envy, but this hike (and pretty much every other hike) delivers significantly more value than attention on social media. It’s an experience, and one so unique that photos and videos can’t adequately document the journey to the top of this monolith. The impact of this hike goes so far beyond visual appeal, and as vivid as the views will remain in my memory, the emotions and the adrenaline rush are what I’ll always value most from this epic adventure.
The five-mile (roundtrip) hike to the top of Angel’s Landing begins at the Grotto trailhead, located across the road from shuttle stop 6. Before embarking on this journey, hikers can and should take advantage of the bathroom facilities and water station near the shuttle stop. From the trailhead, this hike follows a paved trail with a steady but moderate incline for about a mile on the approach to the first set of switchbacks. This is where the trail really begins to climb at a steeper grade, offering sweeping views of the valley below. After the first set of switchbacks, the trail flattens for about half a mile and moves in a straight line along a creek that flows through a narrow gap between towering red rock walls. After about a mile and a half of hiking, we reached the bottom of a brutally steep set of 21 switchbacks known as Walter’s Wiggles. The Wiggles are affectionately named after Zion National Park’s first superintendent, Walter Ruesch, who built these switchbacks into the side of the mountain in 1926.
From an endurance standpoint, the Wiggles are arguably the most challenging part of this hike, but overall, the most difficult part of the journey doesn’t begin until you reach the chains. At the top of the Wiggles, there’s a beautiful overlook (and “emergency-only” toilets, whatever that means), and the route along the chains to the summit of Angel’s Landing finally comes into view. Many hikers choose not to continue beyond the overlook, as this final section certainly isn’t for everyone. It’s an intimidating sight, and in practice, this climb is every bit as steep and perilous as it looks. The trail is usually too narrow to accommodate two-way traffic, which can be problematic due to the volume of hikers you’re sure to encounter here, even during a global pandemic. One slip or misstep could send you, and potentially others around you, tumbling to a certain death at the bottom of the canyon. We hiked this trail at 9 AM on a Tuesday in late September, when the park allegedly wasn’t advertising that the upper section of the trail had reopened, and the place was still dangerously crowded. Stopping to let someone approaching from the opposite direction pass just isn’t an option along many of the climb’s narrow stretches, so it’s crucial to stay aware of your surroundings and be considerate of other hikers. When the trail is busy, expect to spend most of your time on this part of the hike waiting on others.
After reaching the top, it’s easy to see what all the fuss is about. The stunning 360 degree views from the summit of Angel’s Landing certainly justify the heart-pounding anxiety of getting there. Many words come to mind that could describe how I felt when we finally reached the top, but the one that resonates the most is triumphant. Also, the summit is shockingly flat and spacious compared to the trail, so there’s plenty of room to socially distance yourself from the swarms of other hikers. We lingered for a while, taking photos from every angle despite knowing that we’d never really be able to capture this place accurately and comprehensively enough to demonstrate its immense beauty.
On the descent, we passed even more hikers than we’d seen on the journey to the top. This made me feel uneasy, not necessarily because of COVID, but because some of the hikers we passed were behaving recklessly and with little concern for the potential impact of their actions on others. While I’d recommend this hike to anyone (anyone without a fear of heights, that is) visiting Zion National Park, I’d advise starting earlier than we did or going later in the afternoon. Hopefully, the park will eventually implement a permit system to limit the risk of accidents due to overcrowding on this trail. Reportedly, at least 15 people have fallen to their deaths while hiking at Angel’s Landing, but there’s no way to know if any of those accidents could have been prevented by limiting the number of hikers allowed on the trail per day. Additionally, this unique and fragile landscape would surely benefit from lighter and more precisely managed foot traffic. Regardless, I’m grateful for chatty strangers on buses and spontaneous friends who share my appetite for adventure.
BONUS: If y’all have been following along, you know I love a short, easy sunset hike. On the evening before our epic ascent to the top of Angel’s Landing, Megan and I squeezed in a stunning hike along the Zion Canyon Overlook Trail. It’s only a mile (roundtrip) and absolutely manageable for hikers of all ages and skill levels. The views from the overlook are magnificent, and there’s no shuttle pass required for this hike. Parking at the trailhead is very limited, so you’ll likely have to park on the side of the road and walk a quarter of a mile or so to the trailhead. However, the views are unbelievable, especially considering the minimal amount of effort required to reach the overlook.
