The Grandfather Trail: The Most Technical Hike East of the MS River

Touted as the most technical hike east of the Mississippi River that doesn’t require climbing gear, the Grandfather Trail in North Carolina offers an enticing challenge for adventurers who want to channel their inner American Ninja Warrior in the wild. Affectionately referred to as the chutes and ladders trail, this natural obstacle course traverses 2.5 miles (one way) of rugged terrain and thrilling exposure to the summit of Calloway Peak, the highest of a series of peaks along Grandfather Ridge at 5,964 ft. As the moniker suggests, the trail requires hikers to utilize numerous ladders and ropes on the way to the top. If you’re into scrambles and comfortable with exposure, this trail is absolutely exhilarating and offers stunning views of the surrounding Appalachian wilderness.

I live in Tennessee, a rare state that does not charge admission fees to state parks, ever. It’s one of many things I love about my home state, but it’s also set a low bar for what I consider to be “expensive” admission to parks in other places. The Grandfather Mountain Nature Park charges $22 per adult and $9 per child for entry at the park’s main access point. I’m not saying the price isn’t worth it, but this is the most expensive admission fee I’ve paid to enter any state or national park, since national parks charge per vehicle and not per person. I’ve paid $35 for entry to national parks, but this covers unlimited re-entry for me and anyone in my vehicle for a whole week. With this in mind, I think it’s really important to consider where those dollars are going, and in the case of this stunning park, 100% of admission fees are invested into the preservation of the park and its wild inhabitants. There are longer alternative options for hiking to the top of Calloway Peak, for those who want to avoid the admission fee, but these routes also bypass the daunting features that make the Grandfather Trail so unique. The Grandfather Mountain Nature Park offers the best access to the Grandfather Trail and the family friendly amenities close to the visitor center. Consider the admission fee as an investment in memories you won’t soon forget, and more importantly, an investment in the future of this spectacular place as a home for wildlife and an unforgettable destination for future generations of explorers. You can learn more about the organization that supports this park here.*

Most people who enter the park on the road that provides access to the Grandfather trailhead aren’t actually planning to hike this trail. There’s a visitor center across the parking lot from the trailhead and sweeping views along the winding road to the crest of this imposing ridge. There’s an attraction at the visitor center called Mile High Swinging Bridge that’s probably exactly what its name suggests. I may never know, because my husband and I decided to devote all of our daylight hours to the Grandfather trail instead. We hiked this trail in late November, and in warmer and busier months, I think hikers are required to park in a lot below the trailhead that served as our starting point. This may add a mile or so to the trail’s roundtrip distance, along with notable elevation gain on the way up. Leave your kids, dogs, and friends who are afraid of heights at home for this one. They’ll thank you for it later.

After half a mile of modest elevation gain, the trail forks, just beyond a gorgeous overlook at Grandfather Gap. This marks the turnaround point for many hikers. For those that choose to press on, the fork to the right continues along the Grandfather Trail and wastes very little time before manifesting its technical and treacherous reputation through a series of ladders and cables that weave over and under the massive rock ledges that dominate the terrain along the ridge. The route is well-marked and easy to navigate, but it traverses several exposed surfaces that require what I like to refer to as “intentional hiking”. This means that every step is critical to the success of the next one, and moving forward requires unrelenting focus and determination. This pattern repeats itself several times along the way up to the summit of MacRae Peak (5,845 ft), accessible by an unconvincing ladder extending at a nearly vertical trajectory above the trail. I expected the climbing to end at the top of the ladder, but was instead greeted (or taunted, if we’re being honest) by an ominously thin cable that I gripped with white knuckles in chilling 25 MPH winds as I finished the precipitous climb to the top of MacRae Peak.

The wind howled loudly as Andy and I emerged breathless and triumphant on the entirely exposed summit. Luckily, we were the only people up there, because space is very limited. The Grandfather Ridge towers prominently over its surroundings, so sitting on the summit of MacRae Peak, with majestic views for miles and miles in every direction, felt like sitting on top of the world. In my humble opinion, these views are the best of many spectacular ones on the entire hike, but they’re also the riskiest to attain. The final ascent to the top of MacRae Peak is not for everyone, so it’s important to trust your instincts and avoid overcommitting to a potentially dangerous situation.

The thrillingly rugged terrain continues beyond MacRae Peak as the trail traverses the ridge, ascending and descending constantly. Although Calloway Peak lies only two and a half miles from the visitor center at Mile High Swinging Bridge, progress comes slowly. In addition to topography, the trail becomes incredible narrow in many places, especially those with ladders and cables. This makes two way traffic difficult. The Grandfather trail receives significant foot traffic, despite its brutal reputation, so expect to spend some time stopping to wait for hikers coming from the opposite direction to pass. According to the unwritten rules of hiker etiquette, the ascending hiker has the right-of-way, but use your best judgment and communicate with other hikers. It sounds like common sense, but small acts of courtesy and adaptability go a long way in preventing accidents.

After more exposed scrambling, the trail approaches an aggressive ascent through a jagged series of boulders, the final technical challenge that lies between hikers who’ve made it this far and the highest point on the Grandfather Ridge, Calloway Peak. Although the inevitable scramble looks intimidating from the bottom of the gully, it’s not so bad once you start climbing. The route is straightforward and moves upward through a notch. The exposure continues along the ridge beyond the notch for a brief stretch, but the trail eventually retreats into the cover of those sacred Appalachian pines before nonchalantly emerging on top of Calloway Peak. Although the views from Grandfather Mountain’s highest summit aren’t as expansive as the ones from the top of MacRae Peak, they’re just as stunning. The tree cover on the western side of the peak partially blocked the brutal winds that precede winter in Appalachia, and the views to the east from the summit make the ascent entirely worthwhile.

We descended along the same route until reaching a turnoff for the Underwood Trail, a short segment that descends below the ridge line and bypasses the route to MacRae Peak. We’d done some research prior to our hike and knew that this trail would reconnect with the Grandfather Trail without adding any significant distance. Eager to see what this new segment offered, and equally eager for a break from the wind and exposure along the chutes and ladders surrounding MacRae Peak, we followed the Underwood Trail for a half mile or so before reconnecting with the Grandfather Trail near the Grandfather Gap overlook. From here, the trail modestly descends through the dense forest and returns to the trailhead.

I can’t post about my experience on the Grandfather Trail without acknowledging that anyone with legitimate climbing experience (I have none) who’s reading this is likely scoffing at my ignorance for overusing the word “technical” to describe a trail that doesn’t require any technical experience at all. To be perfectly clear, although this trail does not require technical climbing experience or gear, it’s a strenuous and highly exposed hike along unforgiving terrain. If you’ve got the mettle for it, the effort and anxiety pays off in a big way, but observe caution when embarking on this (or any) trail. Avoid the crowds by hiking in the offseason, like we did, but be aware of adverse conditions like wind or snow and plan accordingly. The Grandfather Trail presents an opportunity for adventure unlike any other on this side of the Mississippi, as long as you manage your expectations wisely.

*This post has been revised as of August 5, 2021 to reflect some helpful and clarifying information graciously offered by Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation.