Tag: colorado hikes

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Climbing Colorado Fourteeners: Grays and Torreys Peaks

I believe that fear is one of life’s greatest blessings, and this mentality has significantly influenced both my adventures in the wild and my everyday life. I think of fear as an opportunity demonstrate courage, overcome challenges, and succeed at something I may have previously thought impossible. Fear presents a choice: retreat or move forward.

Grays Peak (left) and Torreys Peak (right) are Colorado’s 9th and 11th highest peaks at 14,270 ft and 14,267 ft, respectively.

Until about two and a half years ago, I didn’t think I could climb a mountain, any mountain. I was afraid of heights and exposure, but with help from some friends, I made it to the top of Old Rag Mountain (3,284 ft) in Shenandoah National Park in July of 2017. To this day, that remains one of my favorite hikes ever, and the experience played a critical role in inspiring the first iteration of my New Year’s Resolution to explore a new trail every month in 2018. Throughout the first few months of 2018, I didn’t think my hiking adventure would ever lead me to the summit of a big mountain. I was afraid of the physical impact that altitude can have on the body and didn’t think I’d ever have the strength or stamina to endure hiking at high elevations. On September 14, 2018, my thirtieth birthday, I climbed to the summit of the highest peak in the Rocky Mountains, Mount Elbert (14,439 ft). I wouldn’t have made it to the top without Andy’s help and encouragement. To show my appreciation, I promoted him from boyfriend to husband ten months later.

Until a few months ago, I didn’t think I could climb a big mountain by myself. I was afraid of the possibility that I hadn’t really conquered my fears, but had instead relied on the strength of others to carry me through them. In October, a trip to Colorado with a couple of friends (Lexi and Anne, who have joined me on several hikes over the past two years) presented me with an opportunity to find out. On a wild, and possibly wine induced, impulse a couple of weeks before the trip, I changed my return flight to allow an extra day in Colorado after my friends planned to fly back to Nashville. I didn’t know if I was ready to climb a fourteener by myself, but I knew I was ready to try.

I had one day, an exceptionally tight window in October in the Rockies, due to intense wind gusts and single-digit temperatures above the tree line that signal the imminent arrival of the first big snow of the season. Also, I knew I’d need to choose from a small handful of mountains relatively close to Denver, to allow enough time for a successful summit, descent, and subsequent drive to the airport for a 9:00 PM flight back to Nashville. There weren’t many realistic options, but there was one that presented me with an opportunity to summit the highest peak on the continental divide and traverse an exposed ridge to the summit of an adjacent fourteener, all in less than ten miles out and back.

Grays and Torreys are part of the Wasatch Range and Arapaho National Forest.

Admittedly, Grays and Torreys are two of the easiest fourteeners to summit in Colorado, and very popular options due to their proximity to Denver and the opportunity to climb two non-technical mountains in one hike. However, “easy” is a relative term, not a literal one. There aren’t any easy fourteeners, only some that are less difficult than others. Experts usually evaluate a mountain’s difficulty based on the technical ability required to climb it, not the amount of route distance or elevation gain from the trailhead, although these factors often influence each other. Environmental factors, like weather and time of year, weigh heavily on individual experiences and can make any hike feel more or less challenging than expected. Every day leading up to the day I’d planned to climb Grays and Torreys, I checked online forums for new trail reports from other hikers and prayed for favorable conditions. At best, I knew I could expect single digit temperatures and severe wind gusts that would only intensify on the precarious ridge between the two summits. Multiple trip reports in the weeks leading up to my hike recounted abandoned attempts at crossing the ridge due to the intensity of the wind, a seasonal side effect of the transition from fall to winter at high altitudes.

The days in Colorado prior to my Grays and Torreys summit hike only increased my concerns about the coldness and brutality of the wind gusts. My friends and I experienced them while hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park, and the highest altitude we reached there was about 12,000 feet. Considering the severity of the winds in less exposed environments and more than 2,000 vertical feet below the summits of Grays and Torreys, fear dominated my thoughts, and doubt started creeping in.

My hair looks like this is every photo from this hike. What can you do, though?

The day before the hike, I said goodbye to my friends as they headed to the airport, and I checked into a cheap motel in Idaho Springs, a 45-minute drive from the trailhead. Maybe my expectations were low, but as it turns out, Idaho Springs is actually kind of cute. I wouldn’t recommend it as a destination, but if you’re passing through on I-70 or want to take advantage of the incredible hiking in the surrounding area, it’s not a bad place to be. I ate some of the best pizza I’ve had in a long time (Beau Jo’s), and promptly went back to my room around 8:00 PM to prepare for an early start on the trail. In the quiet loneliness of my motel room in that isolated town, sleep did not come easily as my mind raced with the uncertainties of the next day.

I reached the trailhead before sunrise, after a dark and skecthy drive up a rugged mountain road that would have been insurmountable without a 4WD vehicle with some clearance. My rented Dodge Journey made the trek at a slow and steady pace, but she got me there. I hiked west along the trail and watched the sun rise above the mountains as I approached the tree line. Because the trailhead rests at nearly 11,000 feet, the trees fade into the background after less than a mile of steady uphill hiking. As a result, both Grays and Torreys tower majestically in view throughout most of the approach.

Grays and Torreys, as viewed from the trail at dawn

God and Mother Nature blessed me with favorable weather, so despite the cold and the wind gusts, the sky was a brilliant shade of solid blue. I felt the bone-chilling intensity of the wind every time it picked up, which happened more frequently as I climbed upward, but the consistency of that sky and the serenity of the alpine tundra landscape fueled me forward. I realized the magnitude of loneliness quickly and often thought of challenging hikes I’ve taken before this one. I remembered the support and encouragement I had from others, those who accompanied me on previous hikes and those who were cheering from the sidelines. Regardless, it didn’t take long for me to realize that a hike like this one is much harder on your own. I struggled with doubt and fear constantly, and there wasn’t anyone there to reassure me in the many moments when brutal winds, incessant breathlessness, or dizzying exposure made me want to turn around and return to my rental car. I thought about that often, knowing I’d have other opportunities in the future to come back and summit these mighty peaks under more favorable conditions. Nonetheless, I kept going.

views across the valley from the upper slopes of Grays Peak, around 13,500 ft

Somewhere north of 13,500 feet, I convinced myself that reaching the summit of Grays would be enough, considering the reports I’d read about the treacherous and highly exposed trail along the ridge to Torreys Peak. Grays is the taller and less technical of the two mountains, and I could avoid the ridge by descending along the same trail I’d taken up. I’d return home feeling content to have even climbed one fourteener by myself. These were my thoughts as I climbed the final stretch of exposed scree to reach the summit of Grays.

Breathless and shaking, I emerged onto the summit of Grays, only to be greeted by a wind gust so strong it nearly sent me tumbling off the mountain. Luckily, someone had assembled a wind shelter on the summit in the form of a curved rock wall several feet high. I crouched beside it to take in the incredible views. It’s funny how the view always feels different from the summit, even when looking at scenery that’s been visible along the upper sections of the trail that lie immediately below the top. It’s as if your brain changes gears and finally allows you to take it all in with a fresh perspective of achievement. I gazed in awe across the terrain I’d just hiked and looked for the first time into the vast mountainous beauty that lie on the other side of Grays Peak. Hundreds of mountains surrounded me on all sides, and I felt like I was perched majestically above all of them.

The summit of Grays Peak (14,270 ft) is the highest point on the Continental Divide.

From the summit of Grays, Torreys suddenly looked less intimidating. I could now see the entire route across the ridge, and although it still intimidated me, with wind so intense that I could literally see it in the form of wispy dust clouds flying off the mountain like tiny translucent hawks, it appeared to be more manageable than it had looked from below. I decided to try it, knowing I could descend from a trail near the saddle if I changed my mind on the way down the from the summit of Grays. I started moving down the side of mountain and quickly realized that this trail was much steeper than the one I’d ascended on the way up. The winds on this part of the trail were stronger and colder than any I’d encountered yet, but I moved slowly forward until I reached the saddle and the spur trail that reconnected with the one I’d ascended to the summit of Grays.

This is the view from the saddle on the ridge between Grays and Torreys, facing the valley that the trail ascends through on its way to the peaks.

I don’t know if it was divine intervention or if I’d just crossed an endurance threshold that made the winds seem less noticeable, but in that moment of decision, I found a sudden burst of energy and determination. The most exposed section of the ridge was still in front of me, but for the first time on that hike, I felt calm and confident. I figured I’d better start moving again before that faded. The trail leading to the summit of Torreys is steeper and more technical than the one I’d taken to the top of Grays. Despite the more rugged terrain, however, the wind wasn’t as much of a factor as it had been before. It was almost 11:00 AM by now and still well below freezing at this altitude, but as the sun rose higher in the sky, the mountain felt warmer and less threatening.

I propelled my aching body over the final pitch and onto the summit just in time to high-five a couple from North Carolina who I’d met on the summit of Grays. These mountains were their first fourteeners, and they’ll never know it, but hiking behind them motivated me to keep going when I felt discouraged along the ridge. I could see them pressing on ahead of me, tiny dots on the side of the mountain, and it reminded me of hiking my first fourteener with Andy a year earlier.

The altitude written on the rock is 8 ft higher than the mountain’s actual height, but I support whoever made the decision to round up.

From the top of Torreys, I stared across the ridge I’d traversed from the summit of Grays, standing in the spot I didn’t think I could reach just two hours earlier. This filled me with an overwhelming sense of triumph and a humbling dose of perspective. The views were different but just as magnificent as the ones from the summit of Grays, and if I hadn’t been running behind an already tight schedule, I could have stayed on top of that mountain all afternoon, despite the wind and the cold. Reluctantly, I started making my way down the trail and back to the saddle, feeling exhausted but invincible.

The fall colors on the alpine tundra sparkled beneath the bluebird sky. I hadn’t noticed their brightness on the hike in, during the dim dawn hours as the sun rose behind the mountains east of Grays and Torreys, casting a shadow across the valley beneath the peaks. I encountered several groups of hikers on the way down, sharing advice from my experience when asked, and providing words of encouragement to those who looked like they needed it. When I returned to the trailhead, I felt physically and mentally drained but entirely fulfilled by the experience. That’s always the goal, right?

Grays Peak, as viewed from the summit of Torreys Peak

Without a doubt, this was one of my best hiking adventures yet. I tested my perceived limitations and emerged from the experience stronger and braver than I’d been before. The confidence I gained on those mountains has manifested itself in my everyday life too, as I pursued an incredible and competitive new job opportunity. I started that new job three weeks ago and couldn’t be happier. This hiking adventure continues to amaze me, not just through the places I’ve seen, but through how much I’ve learned about myself and grown as a result. I still have the same fears, but through my own courage and the support of others, I’m learning how to face them. Fear isn’t a choice, but courage is.

celebrating on top of Torreys Peak, my second fourteener of the day
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Hope Lake Trail: Telluride, Colorado

I’m sure I’ve referred to at least half of the trails I’ve hiked and written about as “one of my favorites” for some reason or another. While I do have many favorites, I’d never encountered a trail that unequivocally topped them all. I never expected to, because the landscapes I’ve hiked through are as diverse as they are beautiful. It’s impossible to compare hiking in Alaska to hiking at the Grand Canyon or in the cavernous backwoods of Tennessee. Each wild and wonderful place holds its own unique appeal, and every hiking experience is different, even when revisiting a familiar trail. This is why the concept of having a single favorite hike had always eluded me, and I was perfectly content with that. I’m sure you’ve sniffed out the upcoming plot twist by now, but here it is: I was wrong to think I couldn’t possibly have a favorite hike; I just didn’t have one yet. Not until I hiked Hope Lake Trail with my new husband, less than twenty-four hours after I married him. Now, I can say without a doubt that of all the hikes I’ve ever taken, anywhere and with anyone, this one’s my favorite.

Marriage, Day 1: the greatest, most beautiful hike I’ve ever experienced, on Hope Lake Trail near Telluride, CO

I’m specifically referring to this as my favorite hike, not my favorite trail (although it may be my favorite trail too, I’d have to hike it again to be sure), because multiple hiking experiences on the same trail can drastically vary depending on factors like time of year, weather, who you’re hiking with, traffic from other hikers, etc. Those influencing factors can be internal too, like your mood or current physical condition. I’m not sure what I did to deserve a hike with perfect conditions across the board, in one of the most magnificent places I’ve ever seen, the day after my wedding. As crazy as this sounds, I feel like Mother Nature watched God send me the perfect husband and the perfect wedding day, and not to be outdone, rolled her eyes and said, “OK, hold my beer”.

This magnificent view, from just above the tree line on Hope Lake Trail, includes the sparkling waters of Trout Lake (center) and the high peaks behind it that form the Wilson group, which includes three of Colorado’s most challenging fourteeners.

There’s no way that words and pictures could even come close to capturing this perfect hike, and maybe that’s why it’s taken me two months to compose this post. I know I’ve often overused the “words/pictures don’t do it justice” cliche in the past, and while all of my hikes feel deeply personal, none has ever impacted me quite like this one, not even mine and Andy’s Mount Elbert summit hike last year on my 30th birthday. I’ve thought about this hike to Hope Lake every day since, in an attempt to keep the memory whole and vivid for as long as I can. I could go on and on about the significance of such an incredible journey through the wilderness on our first day of marriage and create an elaborate metaphor about marriage as an adventure, but I’ll spare y’all from all that. It feels wrong to let a metaphor overshadow or filter a hike like this one. Besides, I’ve got the rest of my life to draw comparisons between my hiking adventures and my marriage, if I ever choose to go down that path.

The majestic San Juan Mountains, still freckled with thinning patches of snow, towered above an enchanting evergreen forest with a floor full of colorful wildflower blossoms. This was our view as we drove slowly up the bumpy, unpaved road to the trailhead. Although there’s a chance we’d have eventually made it up the mountain in a car, I was grateful that we were in a 4WD SUV with some ground clearance. We’d spent the middle part of the day kayaking at nearby Trout Lake (highly recommend, it’s gorgeous and wasn’t crowded at all when we visited on a Saturday morning in July), so we got a later start than we otherwise would have on this moderate 5-mile hike. There were only a couple of other cars in the parking area, which worried me. This part of Colorado endured heavy snow much later in the year than usual, and I’d read mixed reviews on AllTrails about whether or not the lake was currently accessible without the use of crampons or an ice ax, which we didn’t have. Andy had forgotten to put his hiking shoes in the car and was wearing running shoes, but we decided to give it a shot, knowing we could turn around and hike back out if trail conditions forced us to do so.

Trout Lake, quiet and surrounded by mountains and summer wildflowers, lies only a few miles from the trailhead

Hope Lake Trail offers epic views of the San Juan Mountains throughout the hike. However, the thing about this trek that I enjoyed most was the opportunity to see this gorgeous space during a time of transition. We witnessed the breathtaking visual contrast between competing seasons during the small handful of days when snow still decorates the mountains, but just enough has melted to make the trail navigable all the way up to the thawing alpine lake. Our timing felt perfect. If we’d tried to hike this trail a week earlier, the snow accumulation may have prevented us from reaching the lake. A week later, enough snow may have melted to attract a larger crowd to the area, diminishing the peaceful solitude that’s a rare gift on a trail as beautiful and relatively accessible as this one.

stunning view of Vermilion Peak, a thirteener renowned for its radiant colors, as viewed from the top of Hope Lake Trail

The trailhead rests at 10,750 feet, high above Trout Lake and the valleys of Lizard Head Wilderness. The first mile or so gently ascends through an evergreen forest and crosses a couple of shallow streams, likely byproducts of melting snow flowing down from the surrounding peaks. At this altitude, the forest is thick enough to provide shade, but thin enough to offer frequent and far-reaching visibility across the vibrant mountain landscape. We encountered our first unavoidable patch of snow at the Poverty Gulch creek crossing, about 0.3 miles into the hike. We briefly lost the trail beneath the snow, and at that point, I wasn’t feeling optimistic that we’d make it up to the lake, having encountered a significant snowy section before we’d gained any meaningful elevation.

Andy, still in his kayaking attire, looking up at Vermilion Peak from the creek crossing in Poverty Gulch. Despite the presence of snow on the ground, the temperatures on the trail, even at Hope Lake, never felt cooler than fifty degrees.

As the trail climbs and the distance between trees increases, the views expand, until the tree line fades into the background below, opening up to reveal the brushy, colorful landscape of the mountain range’s upper slopes. As you may suspect, we encountered larger and more frequent patches of snow as we gained elevation. While below the tree line, we could easily navigate around most of them by taking brief detours from the trail, moving cautiously to avoid disrupting the fragile landscape around us (and admittedly, to avoid losing the trail again). Despite extended lines of sight above the tree line, snow covered much more of the terrain, and detours on dry ground weren’t always an option. Staying on the buried trail became increasingly difficult, so when available, we followed footprints left behind in the snow by other hikers. Fortunately, the snow fields were never more than a few inches deep, and soft enough to keep us upright.

High above the tree line at nearly 11,700 feet (according to My Altitude, a brilliantly simple app that I use frequently on mountain hikes), we encountered a large snow field that covered the crest of a ridge. We knew we must be getting close to Hope Lake because of our elevation, but we couldn’t see it yet. We couldn’t see where the snow field ended either, but a clear line of footprints provided enough evidence to assure us that we were still moving in the right direction. Since I was wearing waterproof hiking shoes, I went ahead of Andy to assess trail conditions on the other side of the ridge. I trudged upward through the snow, silently praying that I’d be able to see the lake from the top of the ridge, or at least an identifiable trail. Luckily, I found both.

Hope Lake, the main attraction, as viewed from the other side of the snowy ridge and sparkling at nearly 12,000 feet as it thaws in the July sun

It took me a minute to catch my breath. I’m not sure if it was the magnificent view of Hope Lake or the slow trudge up the ridge at that altitude (probably both). I’d never seen anything like Hope Lake, half frozen and looking absolutely radiant as it reflected images of the surrounding mountains in fragments between its thawing patches of ice. The colors of the lake encompassed almost every imaginable shade of blue, from pale and powdery in places where the ice on the surface had melted to the point of translucence to deep aqua in places where the ice had already vanished. These spaces between the ice shimmered with the dark grey reflection of the high peaks that rose above it, and the beautiful variation of colors and textures on the lake’s surface made me feel like I was looking into a giant still frame from a kaleidoscope.

All of the beautiful views along the trail would have made the hike worthwhile, but Hope Lake against that mountain backdrop, in the thawing alpine wilderness, might be the most beautiful sight I’ve ever encountered on any hike.

Aside from a couple of marmots, we were completely, perfectly alone at Hope Lake. As incredible as the views were, the fact that we had the rare opportunity to witness this place in its most native form felt so refreshing and exhilarating. We explored the rugged landscape along the lake’s northern shore, the only side that wasn’t thoroughly buried in snow. We stayed beside the lake for as long as we could, considering our late start on the trail and that we’d need to allow plenty of time to hike back to the car and then navigate down the precarious mountain road before sunset. We could have planned to spend the entire day at Hope Lake, and that still wouldn’t have been long enough to enjoy those gorgeous alpine views.

In the weeks since this hike, I’ve done more research on the trail and its surrounding mountains. I’ve learned that the trail actually continues along the lake’s eastern edge and leads up to an unnamed pass. The pass provides access to the ridge line that connects the magnificent string of thirteeners that dominate the scenery surrounding Hope Lake. We didn’t realize that the trail continued up to the pass, because it lay hidden beneath the snow and wasn’t part of the map we’d been using on AllTrails. I’ve discovered a couple of accounts from other hikers who have headed west from the pass and traversed the ridge line to summit these spectacular peaks that separate Hope Lake from the much more popular alpine lakes of Ice Lake Basin. On our next trip to Telluride, hiking this extended route tops my to do list, as long as the ground is free from snow, of course.

Vermilion (left) and Fuller (right) peaks are part of a series of six thirteeners connected by a ridge accessible from Hope Lake Trail

During our week in Telluride, I developed an enchantment for the area that I haven’t felt for a place since Andy and I went to Alaska two years ago. I’ve loved so many things about each of the wild places I’ve seen, but this one was truly exceptional. We had some initial reservations about planning a wedding in a place we’d never visited before, but looking back, experiencing a place like that for the first time, especially during such a monumental event in our lives, made us appreciate the time we spent there even more. I left feeling grateful for and humbled by the opportunity to have this adventure, and excited for the unlimited possibilities that the future holds for Andy and me.

Andy and I were married on July 19, 2019, surrounded by a small circle of family and close friends, in a valley beneath the San Juan Mountains in Telluride, CO.
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Mount Elbert: Climbing Colorado’s Highest Mountain

On September 14, 2018, two monumental life events happened. I reached the summit of Mount Elbert, the highest peak not only in Colorado but the entire Rocky Mountain Range, and… I turned thirty. This day involved what was, without a doubt, the greatest physical challenge of my life so far, and as a result, the most incredible birthday I’ve ever had.

the magnificent westward facing view from the summit of Mt. Elbert at 14,440 feet

Until this recent trip, I’d never been to Colorado. My parents are beach people, so we never took any ski vacations growing up, and mountains didn’t appeal to me until I started hiking. One of the most enticing things about beaches is accessibility, and I’ve always loved that. It’s easy to immerse yourself in the sand, ocean, and salty breeze. It’s all right there within reach, minimum effort required. Nobody goes to the beach just to look at it, right? Mountains, however, fall on the other end of the spectrum. To me, the inaccessibility of most mountains, relative to most beaches, is immensely attractive. It’s easy to enjoy a mountain view from afar, but to physically be on a mountain like Mount Elbert, to climb it and feel the intoxicating thrill of standing on the summit, transforms the experience into something else entirely. Of course, most people who visit mountains have no desire to climb them, but for those like me, the view from below just isn’t enough.

Mt. Elbert (center), as viewed from a country road dozens of miles southeast of the peak

Although getting ready for Mount Elbert certainly required effort, physical and otherwise (leave a comment or send me a message if you’d like to learn more about how I prepared for this), I should make one thing very clear: despite this mountain’s status as the highest peak in the Rockies, it’s by no means the hardest one to climb. In fact, the route that Andy and I followed requires no technical climbing skills or equipment. However, the trail is painfully strenuous and ascends 4500 vertical feet over five miles to the summit. I’d only recommend it to those who are physically fit and have a high tolerance for heights and exposure.

All things considered, the toughest challenge we encountered was altitude: the great equalizer that doesn’t discriminate against skill, experience, or fitness. On a hike like this one, altitude complicates the journey long before the climb begins, because it takes time for the body to adjust to the lower oxygen levels at high elevations. The elevation at the North Mount Elbert trailhead is nearly 10,000 feet, and the average person begins to feel the impact of altitude at 8000 feet. Thus, I learned an excruciating lesson on the mountain: altitude affects everyone, even if it doesn’t make you sick.

taking a break at roughly 13,000 feet to catch my breath and enjoy the views to the east

A funny thing about mountains is that they tend to get steeper as you get closer to the top. It makes sense when you think about it, and trust me, you think about it constantly when you’re climbing one. As the slope increases, the physical challenge intensifies, and the air that was already thin at the trailhead becomes even thinner with every upward step. Although half of the trail lies below the tree line, this part of the journey is far from a leisurely stroll through the woods. The incline, though it varies in degree throughout different sections of the trail to the summit, is always noticeably present.

When we arrived at the North Mount Elbert trailhead at 6:00 AM, the small parking area was nearly full. When embarking on a high altitude hike in the summer months, afternoon lightening storms are very common above the tree line, and these often pop up with little warning. It’s crucial to get an early start so that you’ll have plenty of time to reach the summit and get back down below the tree line by 1:00 or so. When lightening’s in the area, it tends to strike the highest point on a surface. If you’re 14,000 feet up the side of a mountain and there aren’t any trees around, that high point is probably you. With this in mind, we came prepared for the below freezing pre-sunrise temperatures, but after the first mile or two, the sun came up and allowed us to shed our outer layers.

The first half of the trail lies below the tree line and winds upward through a beautiful forest that was ripe with fall colors during our hike.

Fall weather just recently arrived in Nashville, and it’s nearly November, but in Colorado, the leaves start to change much earlier. Below the tree line, we were surrounded by a rainbow of fall colors. As we approached the summit later in the hike, the expansive view of those fiery colors from far above the tree line was breathtakingly pretty. The dense forest that covers the lower half of the trail obscures any view of the mountain’s peak. However, several breaks in the trees on the way up reveal stunning views of Mount Elbert’s lofty neighbor, Mount Massive, whose summit measures only twenty vertical feet less than Mount Elbert’s. As the trail climbs and the trees become more sparse, Mount Elbert’s peak (or what appears to be its peak) emerges again.

The peak that’s visible from the tree line is actually a false summit, obscuring the top of the mountain from view at this angle.

The next agonizing lesson I learned on the mountain: the psychological trauma of a false summit. The physical strain of ascending a mountain pales in comparison to the emotional wrecking ball that hits you when you realize the peak you’ve been vigorously pursuing isn’t the summit after all, and the toughest part of the climb still lies ahead. False summits are a common occurrence on mountains, which are almost never smooth and cylindrical. When viewed from below at close range, a lower subpeak on a mountain may conceal the actual summit, due to its position and proximity to the climber. It’s difficult to explain, but the illusion that you’re closer to the summit than you are in reality elicits an inevitable feeling of defeat, even when you see it coming.

As the gradient increased sharply between the tree line and the first false summit, we pressed on through what was, in my opinion, the most difficult portion of the trail. Our breaks became more frequent, and aside from the shortness of breath that’s almost universally felt at high altitudes, we started experiencing more side effects above the tree line (roughly 11,900 feet). Most noticeably, these included headache and swelling in our fingers and toes due to poor circulation. The terrain was rugged and severe, so we moved forward carefully, testing our footing on the loose rocks to avoid sending a cascade of stones down the slope toward hikers below us.

view from the first false summit, facing north toward the peaks of Mt. Massive (right)

Beyond the first false summit (situated around 13,200 feet), the journey becomes increasingly difficult with every step. There were times when I couldn’t move more than twenty or thirty steps forward without needing to stop for a second to take in a few desperate breaths. Lightheaded from the thin air and physically exhausted from the climb, we continued, encountering a second false summit before we reached the final stretch: a narrow ridge that leads up to the top of the mountain. From here, the true summit lies in plain sight, unmistakable and magnificent.

the ridge leading to Mt. Elbert’s peak, viewed from the second false summit at 14,000 feet

I’m not embarrassed to admit that I cried when we finally reached the top of Mount Elbert. An adventure like this one takes you through every emotion imaginable, and then some. I felt immensely happy and energized at the trailhead, yet hopelessly discouraged and exhausted upon reaching the first false summit and seeing how much of the climb remained in front of us. I felt overwhelmed with panic when I couldn’t breathe, but then strong and resilient when I kept going anyways. When I looked up and saw other hikers far ahead of us, like tiny ants a thousand feet higher on the mountain, I felt consumed with envy and frustration because they were so much closer to the top than I was. On the summit, however, I felt extremely grateful that we were able to complete this journey at all, as we passed plenty of people on the mountain who never made it to the top.

Andy and I standing on top of Mt. Elbert

None of these emotions compare to the euphoric sense of accomplishment that we felt on the summit, but we only stayed for a few minutes. As I’ve repeatedly mentioned, it’s hard to breathe up there, and the top of the mountain is only the half way point. The descent, though challenging in its own way (because, you know, you’re more likely to fall down than up), was blessedly uneventful compared to the climb. On the way up, we were facing the mountain, and focusing all of our available energy on inching closer toward the summit. While making our way down, facing outward toward the gorgeous Colorado wilderness, we had a higher capacity for taking in many views that we were too distracted to notice before. This brings me to the final and most important lesson I learned on Mount Elbert.

This panoramic shot captures views to the south and west from the top of Mt. Elbert

Throughout the last year of my twenties, I spent a lot of time thinking about (and dreading) turning thirty. I couldn’t shake the feeling that I hadn’t accomplished enough over the past ten years, or that I was somehow “behind” where my twenty-year-old self thought I should be at thirty. I focused so much energy on what I hadn’t yet achieved that I lost sight of the many accomplishments I should be proud of. My salary didn’t cross the six-figure threshold in my twenties, but I’m working in a job that I love and earning more than enough to maintain financial stability. I didn’t get married or start a family, but I’m in the happiest, healthiest relationship of my life, and we have plenty of time to create our own version of happily ever after. I’ve finished two college degrees, travelled to places I never imagined I’d see in my twenties, and been overwhelmingly blessed by the love and support of family and friends who stood by me throughout the highest peaks and lowest valleys of my twenties.

Now that I’m a decade older and wiser, I see my blessings more clearly and regret that I didn’t appreciate them enough in my twenties. In my thirties, I’m sure I’ll climb more mountains, physically and metaphorically, and I’ll do so without fear or doubt that my peaks don’t measure up to everyone else’s.