Atlanta Hiking Trails: Arabia Mountain

Like so many other words, travel has adopted a different meaning in 2020. When the year began, I had so many big plans for the places I’d go and the hikes I’d take throughout the year. My husband and I were going to New Zealand for our honeymoon. My friends and I were going to Yosemite to hike to the top of Half Dome. I felt certain that I’d be able to squeeze in another fourteener in Colorado somewhere in between. It all felt so realistic, until it just didn’t any more. The losses and disappointments that I’ve faced due to COVID-19 are so small and insignificant compared to what many others have experienced and will continue to endure. I repeat that sentence to myself daily, over and over. It drives my decision making process now, in this “new normal”. I’ve re-evaluated how I define travel. I’m seeking normalcy and closeness to the ones I love over the desire to escape my routine and flee to somewhere unfamiliar and exotic. I’m embracing this as an opportunity to focus on my roots instead of my branches, for the first time in years, and it feels really refreshing.

In late June, my friend moved into a new home with her new fiancĂ© in Atlanta, and I eagerly volunteered to help them move. As much as I love Nashville, I was desperate for a change of scenery, but more importantly, I missed my friend. In-person time with loved ones can’t be taken for granted these days, and a few hours of free labor seemed like a small price to pay in exchange for an overdue weekend with my bestie.

sweaty selfie from the top of Arabia Mountain in Georgia

I’d planned to hike on Sunday on my way out of Atlanta. My friend wasn’t able to join, because she needed to be present in her new home to unpack and patiently wait on the cable guy to show up at an unspecified time during an eight hour window. We’ve all been there. I’d originally pointed my hiking boots in the direction of Blood Mountain, a difficult trail in the northeast corner of Georgia. However, after a Saturday night filled with celebratory margaritas after the move, I wasn’t feeling quite as ambitious when I woke up on Sunday morning. We’ve all been there, too. Instead, I changed course and headed towards Arabia Mountain State Park, located about an hour southeast of Atlanta.

I hiked a mild four-mile loop that included a combination of the Arabia Mountain, Klondike, and Forest trails. Despite its imposing name, Arabia Mountain isn’t much of a mountain at all. With a summit of 955 feet, this mountain resembles a concrete hill with sporadic cactus patches. The scenery along this loop is unusual, to say the least. The smooth texture and swirling color of the immense and unusual rock area around this trail create a dizzying effect, especially in the sweltering heat of Georgia in late June.

one of the rock outcroppings along the loop trail, covered with a marble-like pattern on a smooth rock surface

I traveled counterclockwise, and I reluctantly admit that I had trouble following the loop that AllTrails recommended. Initially, I tried to hike the loop clockwise, but I could not find the turn-off at 0.25 miles that leads up to the summit of Arabia Mountain. At the time. I turned around and decided to hike in the other direction, hoping that the route would be more straightforward from the other direction. It was, but due to many overlapping trails in the park, I still relied heavily on AllTrails to ensure I stayed on my intended course. The loop includes some paved sections and a short boardwalk that runs parallel to a two-lane road on one side and Arabia Mountain on the other, covering a swampy drainage area that was unfortunately strewn with discarded trash. However, most of the trail covered dusty and rocky terrain, including a couple of massive and smooth rock outcroppings that resembled an undulating pattern of color on an unwavering surface.

views of the unique terrain below the top of Arabia Mountain

The area’s kaleidoscope-like terrain isn’t the only feature that makes this trail feel more like a stroll down a carnival boulevard than a hike in central Georgia. The remains of forgotten buildings and bridges, graffitied and rotting beneath a relentless summer sun, give the landscape an eerie, post-apocalyptic vibe. Many of these structures are easily accessible from the trail, tempting curious hikers to explore the overgrown walls and speculate about the history that’s been diminished by the elements over time.

Although cairns steer hikers in the general direction of Arabia Mountain’s summit, there’s no trail on the approach to the top. There’s no shade either. Admittedly, the views from the summit felt underwhelming. In my humble opinion, the mysterious sights along the rest of the trail offered more intrigue and whimsy. But if you’re visiting Arabia Mountain State Park, hiking to the summit feels like an obligatory part of the experience.

The rock outcroppings contained hundreds of sporadic patches of purple cactus flowers.

After descending from the summit and returning to the merciful shade of the Georgia pines along the trail, I approached an iron gate that separated the trail from an intersecting two-lane road. I then realized why I’d missed the turn off in my initial attempt to hike the trail clockwise. The section of trail I’d just traversed ends at the gate, and hikers must cross the road on foot (looking both ways before doing so, obviously), in order to access the trail again on the other side. It’s much easier to spot from this perspective, and because of this, I recommend hiking the loop counterclockwise.

Ultimately, this hike surprised me. I didn’t expect the uniqueness of the landscape, but I also didn’t expect the litter that’s often characteristic of sections of trail that run alongside highways. I’d still like to hike to the summit of Blood Mountain, just not in the wake of margaritas. However, this provided a surprising and alluring alternative that I’d have overlooked otherwise. This is the beauty of my journey to hike a new trail every month. Preparation and research are only as good as the circumstances that allow them to be realistic parameters. When plans fail, give the unexpected a chance to be worthwhile and memorable.

ruins of an unknown concrete structure along the trail
the remains of a bridge that once extended across Arabia Lake
what’s left of a dam that formed the southern border of Arabia Lake

Day Hikes Near Nashville: Barfield Crescent Park

Amid the current circumstances with COVID, I’ve been embracing the opportunity to spend more time on trails close to home. Now more than ever, I feel very lucky to live in a place with close access to many beautiful hiking destinations. I think it’s still so important to spend time outside, while taking the recommended precautions, and that sunshine and sweat are inherently good for physical and mental health.

This mentality led me to Barfield Crescent Park in Murfreesboro, TN. From Nashville, the drive to this lovely park takes about 35 or 40 minutes, and the journey is worth it for those who want to avoid the crowds commonly found at Nashville parks like Percy Warner and Radnor Lake. I love those two Nashville parks, by the way, but sometimes the heavy foot traffic deflates the experience. I certainly wasn’t alone on the trail at Barfield Crescent Park, but when hiking the extended loop on a beautiful Sunday in late May, I encountered very few people beyond the first section of trail that leads to the swimming hole at Stones River. Despite its location in the middle of a sprawling suburban landscape, Barfield Crescent Park often feels surprisingly remote, and social distancing wasn’t difficult at all during my hike here. As is the case with many heavily trafficked urban or suburban parks, the paved sections of trail close to the parking lots and trailheads are wide enough to comfortably accommodate two-way foot traffic, even during a pandemic. Beyond that, more rugged trail options provide an escape from the crowds.

views of Stones River from the trail

Hiking the loop counter clockwise, I stopped briefly at the Stones River swimming hole (located about three quarters of a mile from the trailhead), which is little more than an easily accessible section of creek that’s deep enough for swimming. If you’re expecting to find a swimming hole in Murfreesboro like what you’d find at Cummins Falls or Foster Falls, prepare to be disappointed. There’s no waterfall on this hike. On a hot day, however, the calm and relatively shallow waters provide a safe and refreshing environment for swimmers and sunbathers of all ages. When I visited on a bright and sunny Sunday afternoon in late May, I was surprised to find myself in the company of less than twenty people at the swimming hole.

my secluded corner of the swimming hole

I opted out of swimming and continued to work my way around the loop. The trail beyond the swimming hole is unpaved and very narrow, providing access to an immersive experience in a woodland oasis secluded from its neighboring subdivisions and outlet malls. The main trail, Marshall Knobs Trail, forms a 2.5 mile loop (including the paved section that leads to the swimming hole), but visitors can stretch this loop into a 4.5 mile hike with the addition of two horseshoe shaped spur trails, Valley View and Rocky Path. Although the trail is uneven and rugged in many places, there’s little elevation gain, making this an easy and pleasant journey for hikers of all ages and fitness levels. I encountered fewer than ten other hikers on the unpaved parts of the trail, which has never happened on any of the dozens of hikes I’ve taken at Percy Warner Park or Radnor Lake in Nashville, not even on winter days with subfreezing temperatures or summer days with triple a digit heat index from sunrise to sunset.

The trail continues to run parallel to Stones River past the swimming hole before turning inland about 1.3 miles into the hike. From here, the trail passes through a unique landscape littered with dozens of mysterious sinkholes. I’m sure everyone reading this has extensive knowledge of Tennessee’s geological history (jokes, I checked my facts on Google before posting this). However, in case you aren’t familiar with sinkholes or why Tennessee has so many of them, here’s a brief overview. Tennessee’s foundation is loaded with limestone, a notoriously soft rock that erodes more quickly than most other types of rock found below the earth’s surface. Water causes erosion, and Tennessee’s humid subtropical climate delivers a high volume of rainfall. Rain drips into the foundation below the soil and erodes the limestone beneath the earth’s surface over time, creating our state’s vast network of underground caverns and rivers. Eventually, erosion can strip away more limestone from the foundation than what’s needed to bear the weight of the ground above it, causing the surface layer to collapse into a hollow space in the earth formerly occupied by rock. This, ladies and gents, is where sinkholes come from.

one of many sinkholes alongside the trail at Barfield Crescent Park

Barfield Crescent Park is loaded with sinkholes, which might be why this land became a park instead of a residential or commercial development. Regardless, I’ve never seen more sinkholes so close together on any hike I’ve ever taken. It’s fair to assume, however, that most sinkholes in the forest go unnoticed unless you’re looking for them, and I’m usually not. Sinkholes aren’t particularly cute, unless they mature and evolve into caves, which is common in Tennessee but obviously not something that happens quickly enough to notice during a single lifetime.

On this hike, the sinkholes are hard to miss because they’re literally everywhere, dotting the densely wooded landscape like little craters with vein-like roots and vines climbing their smooth limestone walls. Because sinkholes are delicate micro ecosystems, avoid climbing down into them. Also, sinkholes are inherently cool, dark, and damp pits, which makes them prime real estate for snakes. In this park, you’ll have ample opportunity to admire sinkholes from them trail without disrupting their fragility or putting your own safety at risk.

Hiking at Barfield Crescent Park feels like an escape, not a stroll through the neighborhood.

You’ll likely have cell service throughout this hike, and I’d recommend using the AllTrails map for the Barfield Wilderness Trail Loop after the trail turns away from the river. You won’t get truly lost in this park, but the network of intersecting trails can be difficult to navigate, and there aren’t many signs. I accidentally ended up on the bike trail at one point, and I encountered another hiker who was hiking in the opposite direction along his intended course after getting turned around when reconnecting with the main trail after following one of the spurs.

As I completed the loop and returned to the parking lot, where a visitor center and its adjoining bathrooms were locked due to COVID (just an FYI, if you plan to visit soon), I felt pleasantly surprised by this trail. Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much, considering the location. I’d originally planned to hike at Old Stone Fort on this particular day, but that parking lot was full when I arrived, and TN State Parks isn’t allowing parking outside of designated spaces right now, as a measure to increase safety by limiting foot traffic on trails. Barfield Crescent Park was my back-up plan, but the accessibility from Nashville and light foot traffic made the experience very worthwhile nonetheless.

scenic views along the trail at Barfield Crescent Park