Tag: nashville

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Day Hikes Near Nashville: Barfield Crescent Park

Amid the current circumstances with COVID, I’ve been embracing the opportunity to spend more time on trails close to home. Now more than ever, I feel very lucky to live in a place with close access to many beautiful hiking destinations. I think it’s still so important to spend time outside, while taking the recommended precautions, and that sunshine and sweat are inherently good for physical and mental health.

This mentality led me to Barfield Crescent Park in Murfreesboro, TN. From Nashville, the drive to this lovely park takes about 35 or 40 minutes, and the journey is worth it for those who want to avoid the crowds commonly found at Nashville parks like Percy Warner and Radnor Lake. I love those two Nashville parks, by the way, but sometimes the heavy foot traffic deflates the experience. I certainly wasn’t alone on the trail at Barfield Crescent Park, but when hiking the extended loop on a beautiful Sunday in late May, I encountered very few people beyond the first section of trail that leads to the swimming hole at Stones River. Despite its location in the middle of a sprawling suburban landscape, Barfield Crescent Park often feels surprisingly remote, and social distancing wasn’t difficult at all during my hike here. As is the case with many heavily trafficked urban or suburban parks, the paved sections of trail close to the parking lots and trailheads are wide enough to comfortably accommodate two-way foot traffic, even during a pandemic. Beyond that, more rugged trail options provide an escape from the crowds.

views of Stones River from the trail

Hiking the loop counter clockwise, I stopped briefly at the Stones River swimming hole (located about three quarters of a mile from the trailhead), which is little more than an easily accessible section of creek that’s deep enough for swimming. If you’re expecting to find a swimming hole in Murfreesboro like what you’d find at Cummins Falls or Foster Falls, prepare to be disappointed. There’s no waterfall on this hike. On a hot day, however, the calm and relatively shallow waters provide a safe and refreshing environment for swimmers and sunbathers of all ages. When I visited on a bright and sunny Sunday afternoon in late May, I was surprised to find myself in the company of less than twenty people at the swimming hole.

my secluded corner of the swimming hole

I opted out of swimming and continued to work my way around the loop. The trail beyond the swimming hole is unpaved and very narrow, providing access to an immersive experience in a woodland oasis secluded from its neighboring subdivisions and outlet malls. The main trail, Marshall Knobs Trail, forms a 2.5 mile loop (including the paved section that leads to the swimming hole), but visitors can stretch this loop into a 4.5 mile hike with the addition of two horseshoe shaped spur trails, Valley View and Rocky Path. Although the trail is uneven and rugged in many places, there’s little elevation gain, making this an easy and pleasant journey for hikers of all ages and fitness levels. I encountered fewer than ten other hikers on the unpaved parts of the trail, which has never happened on any of the dozens of hikes I’ve taken at Percy Warner Park or Radnor Lake in Nashville, not even on winter days with subfreezing temperatures or summer days with triple a digit heat index from sunrise to sunset.

The trail continues to run parallel to Stones River past the swimming hole before turning inland about 1.3 miles into the hike. From here, the trail passes through a unique landscape littered with dozens of mysterious sinkholes. I’m sure everyone reading this has extensive knowledge of Tennessee’s geological history (jokes, I checked my facts on Google before posting this). However, in case you aren’t familiar with sinkholes or why Tennessee has so many of them, here’s a brief overview. Tennessee’s foundation is loaded with limestone, a notoriously soft rock that erodes more quickly than most other types of rock found below the earth’s surface. Water causes erosion, and Tennessee’s humid subtropical climate delivers a high volume of rainfall. Rain drips into the foundation below the soil and erodes the limestone beneath the earth’s surface over time, creating our state’s vast network of underground caverns and rivers. Eventually, erosion can strip away more limestone from the foundation than what’s needed to bear the weight of the ground above it, causing the surface layer to collapse into a hollow space in the earth formerly occupied by rock. This, ladies and gents, is where sinkholes come from.

one of many sinkholes alongside the trail at Barfield Crescent Park

Barfield Crescent Park is loaded with sinkholes, which might be why this land became a park instead of a residential or commercial development. Regardless, I’ve never seen more sinkholes so close together on any hike I’ve ever taken. It’s fair to assume, however, that most sinkholes in the forest go unnoticed unless you’re looking for them, and I’m usually not. Sinkholes aren’t particularly cute, unless they mature and evolve into caves, which is common in Tennessee but obviously not something that happens quickly enough to notice during a single lifetime.

On this hike, the sinkholes are hard to miss because they’re literally everywhere, dotting the densely wooded landscape like little craters with vein-like roots and vines climbing their smooth limestone walls. Because sinkholes are delicate micro ecosystems, avoid climbing down into them. Also, sinkholes are inherently cool, dark, and damp pits, which makes them prime real estate for snakes. In this park, you’ll have ample opportunity to admire sinkholes from them trail without disrupting their fragility or putting your own safety at risk.

Hiking at Barfield Crescent Park feels like an escape, not a stroll through the neighborhood.

You’ll likely have cell service throughout this hike, and I’d recommend using the AllTrails map for the Barfield Wilderness Trail Loop after the trail turns away from the river. You won’t get truly lost in this park, but the network of intersecting trails can be difficult to navigate, and there aren’t many signs. I accidentally ended up on the bike trail at one point, and I encountered another hiker who was hiking in the opposite direction along his intended course after getting turned around when reconnecting with the main trail after following one of the spurs.

As I completed the loop and returned to the parking lot, where a visitor center and its adjoining bathrooms were locked due to COVID (just an FYI, if you plan to visit soon), I felt pleasantly surprised by this trail. Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much, considering the location. I’d originally planned to hike at Old Stone Fort on this particular day, but that parking lot was full when I arrived, and TN State Parks isn’t allowing parking outside of designated spaces right now, as a measure to increase safety by limiting foot traffic on trails. Barfield Crescent Park was my back-up plan, but the accessibility from Nashville and light foot traffic made the experience very worthwhile nonetheless.

scenic views along the trail at Barfield Crescent Park
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Beaman Park: A Wild and Often Overlooked Hiking Destination in Nashville

I can’t really pin it on one thing, but for a collection of small reasons, last month I came closer to failing to fulfill my monthly new hike than I have since this journey began sixteen months ago. Each of these reasons would have been individually insignificant (until they started to pile up), and I found myself staring down the final weekend in April and hadn’t made any plans for a new hike. To complicate matters, I’d already booked a flight to New Orleans that weekend to visit my parents and attend a concert with my dad for his birthday (We saw Van Morrison at Jazz Fest, and in case you were wondering, Van’s still got it). While New Orleans is an outstanding destination for music and culture, it’s not a great destination for hiking. I took an early flight back to Nashville on the final day of April, praying for no delays, and started looking into the few trails I hadn’t yet hiked within a dozen or so miles of the city.

Henry Hollow Loop at Beaman Park in Nashville, TN

I decided to visit a 5.5 mile loop trail at Beaman Park, a place I’d heard very little about. Despite the park’s relatively close proximity to Nashville (about half an hour’s drive from downtown), the area feels much more remote. Soon after leaving the city limits behind me, I noticed that the landscape changed quickly. The buildings started getting smaller as the spaces between them grew bigger. After only a few minutes, the buildings nearly faded away all together as the road twisted through rolling hills and dense woods toward Beaman Park.

When I arrived at the parking lot near the Creekside trailhead, there was only one other car in sight. Even at 3:30 PM on a muggy Tuesday, this surprised me. I frequently hike at Percy Warner and Radnor Lake, where the trails stay packed, regardless of time of day or week. I suspected that Beaman Park, as a smaller park further away from the city center, would be less crowded than the other two, but this place was eerily, and delightfully, deserted. Eager to explore this park in its most natural, undisturbed state, I made a brief stop at the information sign to plan my route before hitting the trail.

views from the Creekside trailhead at Beaman Park

I hiked a combination of Henry Hollow Loop and Ridgetop Trail. I’m naturally inclined to hike loop trails in clockwise direction, unless there’s a compelling reason why I shouldn’t. With no one around to suggest otherwise, I followed my instincts and veered to the left as I started to make my way around Henry Hollow Loop. The initial stretch of Henry Hollow Loop runs roughly parallel to Henry Creek, a scenic, quiet creek with patches of wildflowers sprouting from its banks during my visit in late spring. After about a mile, the trail splits, with the left fork leading across a bridge over the creek and uphill toward the Nature Center. Working with a limited amount of remaining daylight, I declined this detour and followed the right fork as it twisted upward toward the intersection with Ridgetop Trail.

Henry Creek, slowly flowing alongside Henry Hollow Loop

The trail narrows as it climbs the ridge, but the elevation gain is moderate. The dense forest completely envelops the scenery along the trail and creates a tunnel-like effect, a constant reminder that I was completely alone on this trail. A year ago, this would have made me feel apprehensive and vulnerable, but I’ve since learned to appreciate these rare moments of solitude on hiking trails, especially those so close to Nashville. I only passed one other hiker after turning onto Ridgetop Trail, an out-and-back tangent off of Henry Hollow Loop that contributes about two thirds of the total distance covered by the combined trails. Ridgetop Trail ends abruptly in the middle of the forest, in a clearing with a few primitive benches. The trees are too dense to allow any view across the surrounding area, but the clearing provides a quiet space to rest (and take a selfie, maybe) before turning around to head back to Henry Hollow Loop.

the clearing that abruptly ends Ridgetop Trail

Lightly trafficked trails generally offer a better opportunity to see snakes. I’m always looking out for snakes on my hikes, but I usually don’t see any. As strange as it may sound, I think snakes are fascinating and beautiful, when viewed from a safe distance (that part is critical to an enjoyable snake sighting). I’d seen a photo of a rattlesnake on the information sign at the trailhead, and I was hoping I’d see one on my hike (again, from a safe distance, I can’t stress this enough). I regret to report that I didn’t see any rattlesnakes, but I did see a small, harmless brown snake slithering across the trail and out the way of my approaching footsteps.

the small, non-venomous brown snake that I encountered on the trail

The snake sighting occurred close to the end of my hike, after I’d returned to Henry Hollow Loop from Ridgetop Trail. This part of the loop covers mild terrain, but the trail remains narrow and heavily covered by a thick canopy of trees. The sounds of birds frequently interrupted the quiet. I’m not sure if this park has an abnormally high concentration of birds compared to other parks in the area, or if I was just more aware of the birds because there wasn’t really any other noise in the park. No noise from other hikers or cars, no noise from water rushing over rocks, just the birds and the occasional squirrel rustling through the leaves on the forest floor.

Throughout the 5.5-mile hike, I only saw four other people on the trail. I’m sure it’s busier on weekends, but I rarely have the opportunity to hike on weekdays due to my job. It only worked out for me to hike at Beaman Park on a Tuesday afternoon because I’d taken the day off to travel back to Nashville from New Orleans. I’m so grateful to have experienced this park for the first time on such a quiet day. I think many people would feel underwhelmed by this park, because there aren’t any scenic overlooks or so-called attractions like waterfalls or caves along the trail. However, the first word that pops into my mind when I think back to my hike here is “solitude”. It’s a rare thing to find so close to Nashville, and it stays with you after its gone. I find spiritual peace and comfort in these moments, and think of them often when the daily grind of my indoor obligations, like work and laundry, starts to wear me down.

naturally, pausing for a quick wilderness selfie in the clearing at the end of Ridgetop Trail

Places like Beaman Park are a big part of why I wanted to continue this New Year’s Resolution in 2019. This one wasn’t even on my radar last year, totally obscured by more well known trails and parks. It makes me wonder what I’ll discover if (let’s be real, it’s a matter of when not if) I continue on this adventure in 2020. I’m hopeful about what else is out there and can’t imagine that I’ll run out of unknown places to explore any time soon.

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Walls of Jericho Trail in Alabama

Events beyond my control interrupted my hiking plans many times in 2018, either by forcing me to choose a different date for the new trail I wanted to hike that month or forcing me to choose another trail all together. I learned so much about exploring the great outdoors last year, but one of my most significant learnings was to always have a back up plan. And that back-up plan should include two critical elements: a date and a location. You may not need both, but I needed at least one on about half of my new hikes in 2018.

In 2019, the back-up plan trend continues. In January, a government shutdown and roads closed due to snow prevented my friends and I from accessing any trail at Mount Rainier National Park beyond the first trail that we encountered after entering the park, Paul Peak Trail. Throughout February, Tennessee endured record-breaking rainfall and flooding that resulted in trail closures across the state. Also, I had to wait three weeks into the already short month before experiencing a weekend day without heavy rain. This brings me to March, and one of the most bittersweet instances of ruined plans since this journey began fifteen months ago.

Walls of Jericho: the most beautiful hike that I almost didn’t take

At the beginning of March, the company that I work for sent me to a brand marketing conference in San Diego. Sounds terrible, right? After a long winter filled with business trips to places like New York, Chicago, and Detroit, I pounced on this all-expenses-paid opportunity for networking and professional development in sunny, beautiful southern California. Additionally, I decided to extend my trip through the weekend following the conference and convinced my fiancé, Andy, to fly out and join me (he barely blinked before accepting that offer). I’d researched potential hiking destinations around San Diego and had my heart set on a network of stunning cliffside trails overlooking the Pacific Ocean at Torrey Pines State Park. Despite my anticipation and planning, however, a rare thing happened in San Diego in the days leading up to this adventure: rain. Enough rain to cause erosion and close all of the trails in the park.

Because of the rain, we’d waited until our final day in San Diego to attempt this hike, so when it didn’t work out, I knew I wouldn’t have another opportunity to hike there before going home. I shouldn’t have been disappointed by this, because regardless of the botched hiking plans, I enjoyed every single minute of my time in San Diego. When I returned to Nashville, I knew I’d need to start over and find a new hike close to home. At the time, I had little faith that I could possibly find a trail that would live up to the expectations I had for the hike I missed out on in San Diego. I’m happy to admit that I was wrong.

Black’s Beach in San Diego, this stunning beach lies below the cliffs of Torrey Pines State Park (it’s also a nude beach, as Andy and I discovered soon after our arrival)

Walls of Jericho, an impressive natural amphitheater, lies barely north of the state line between Tennessee and Alabama and can be accessed by two different trailheads, one in each state. According to local folklore, Davy Crockett explored the area in the 1700s, and a minister who performed baptisms there in the 1800s gave the canyon its biblical name. I’ve had this trail on my radar for a long time, but it was never really high enough on my list to become a priority over other trails that I thought would be more scenic or challenging. Now that I’ve seen the breathtakingly beautiful Walls of Jericho in person, and endured a grueling seven-mile hike in the process, I regret that I didn’t explore this place as soon as I learned it existed. I’ve hiked so many gorgeous trails within a day trip of Nashville, and while there’s not a single one I wouldn’t revisit, I think I’ve found a new favorite Walls of Jericho.

This photo was taken above the waterfall at the entrance to Walls of Jericho, as we made our way toward an upper corner of the canyon.

The trailhead in Tennessee and the trailhead in Alabama are connected by a strenuous seven-mile trail, and Walls of Jericho lies around this trail’s half-way point. The Alabama side of trail is more popular due to its reputation as the more beautiful and dynamic section, although I’ve also read positive reviews about the Tennessee side too. When my friend, Anne, and I arrived at the small parking lot for the Alabama trailhead, shortly before 9:00 AM on a warm and sunny Saturday, we pulled into one of the last remaining spots available. Throughout our journey along the trail, we passed many other hikers, but the traffic was spread out pretty evenly and wasn’t significant enough to lessen the experience or slow us down.

From the trailhead, we descended into the canyon as the trail weaved through a heavily wooded area with scattered large rock formations. The forest was showing early signs of spring, as green leaf buds dotted the trees around us and countless wildflowers poked their tiny blossoms through the fading layer of dead, fallen leaves on the ground. The wildflowers displayed an array of colors from red to purple to bright blue and yellow, changing as we hiked through the canyon’s layers. At the bottom of the canyon, we passed a small, primitive campground before crossing a narrow wooden bridge over Turkey Creek, the same creek that flows between the Walls of Jericho and slowly carved them out of the earth over time.

the trail to Walls of Jericho, with Turkey Creek flowing along one side and tiny blue wildflowers dotting the landscape on the other

After a stretch of flat and mild terrain, plus one more creek crossing, we passed two more camping areas along Turkey Creek before the trail narrowed and began climbing towards its namesake feature. As the canyon walls grew higher and the space between them narrowed, Anne and I slowed our pace enough to allow us to take in the beauty of our changing surroundings. To the left of us, a high canyon wall sloped upward about a hundred feet above us, and on our right, beyond the trail’s narrow ledge, Turkey Creek rushed over the rocky riverbed far below us. On the other side of the creek, the opposite canyon wall towered above the floor of the canyon. We knew that we must be getting close to Walls of Jericho, and when the trees opened up to reveal the trail’s main attraction, we had no idea that the incredible view before us was only the beginning of a unique and impressive space unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

the magnificent entrance to Walls of Jericho, and the first of three waterfalls flowing through the canyon

Our initial view included a stunning bowl-shaped depression in the canyon, occupied by a wide, shallow pool at the bottom of a small waterfall cascading over the edge of a rock face that blocked our view of the upper sections of the Walls of Jericho. The trail descends into the bowl and ends at the edge of Turkey Creek, which at this point covers what’s left of the gap between the canyon walls. We crossed a string of barely submerged rocks to reach a raised, dry section of the creek bed. From there, we had a closer view of the waterfall and a better vantage point from which to determine the best route up and over the edge of the rock wall. Admittedly, we just followed a couple of other hikers who seemed familiar with the area, but even without anyone else present, we would have been able to find it eventually (I’d like to think we would have, anyways).

We continued this strategy as we climbed up and over the series of rock walls that led further up and back into the recesses of the canyon, which extended across a lot more space than either of us expected. After heavy rainfall, I’m sure this part of the canyon can become inaccessible, but part of the creek that carved out Walls of Jericho actually flows through tunnels in the walls. This creates a collection of seemingly random holes in the walls with water flowing out of them, downward toward the bottom of the canyon. The visual effect is whimsical and stunning, but the practical implications benefit hikers because this creates plenty of dry space to explore above ground.

Anne on one of the canyon’s upper levels, above the first two waterfalls

At the far end of the canyon, a small but mighty waterfall flows from the rim down into a pocket in the walls. The only way to access the bottom of this pocket is by descending about thirty vertical feet of precariously steep rock wall. While there’s a rope available to assist with a descent for those who are bold enough to try it, I chose an alternative route that wasn’t as steep, finding hand and foot holds in the rock to lower myself down into the pit. (Side note for all my fellow Parks and Rec fans out there: I had Mouse Rat’s smash hit “The Pit” playing on repeat in my mind throughout my journey into this pit, but I’m proud to say that I did not actually fall in.)

the third and final waterfall, at the upper end of the canyon

Anne and I lingered at Walls of Jericho for as long as we could before returning to the trail, and I’d advise anyone who endures the hike in and out of this place to plan on spending at least an hour here, although it’d be easy to find reasons to stay longer. Also worth noting, the camp sites along the trail offer magnificent views of Turkey Creek and the canyon walls. As we passed these again on our way out of the canyon, I was still riding the high of the exhilarating views at Walls of Jericho. So much so that I forgot about the trail’s steep descent into the canyon, which translates into a steep (and much more difficult) ascent on the way out. As is usually the case, the trail didn’t seem nearly as precipitous on the way down as it did on the way up.

Before Anne and I resurfaced at the trailhead, we’d already started making plans to return to this area for an overnight camping trip along the trail. As beautiful as this place looked in early spring, with the wildflowers and the high volume of water rushing through the creek, I can only imagine how gorgeous the hike would be in the fall, when rusty orange and yellow leaves replace the bright green of spring. Regardless, I hope I don’t have to wait until fall before returning to this trail.

the view from one of the camping areas at the bottom of the canyon

One thing that didn’t cross my mind during this hike: the disappointment I’d felt over the missed opportunity to hike along the high cliffs over the Pacific Ocean in San Diego. Discovering a gorgeous trail that’s close to home is always a humbling experience, and a reminder of how easy it can be to overlook an amazing opportunity simply because it’s the one that’s right in front of you. This definitely translates into my life outside of my outdoor adventures. The allure of exploring wild places far away from home is so attractive to me, and I know that my greatest adventures still lie in front of me. It’s a powerful feeling, and one of my greatest sources of motivation (that and Nick Saban, roll tide). Despite all of my big dreams and bucket list hikes, branching out into the world wouldn’t bring me much joy if I neglected opportunities to deepen my roots close to home. I think each makes the other more meaningful, and I have no plans to slow down on either front any time soon.

one more photo from the bottom of the pit, the precarious journey to the bottom was well worth the effort
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My 2018 New Year’s Resolution: The Final Chapter

One year ago, I had this tiny impulse to take a hike on a trail I’d never visited before. Honestly, this idea didn’t begin as a New Year’s Resolution. I’d never followed through on a New Year’s Resolution before, so as 2018 approached, I had little incentive to make that annual empty promise to become “better” in the coming year. I was burnt out on resolutions, and I didn’t want to deal with the subsequent self-loathing of failing to achieve a goal set with good intentions, even with the knowledge that success was never very realistic to begin with. The timing of this idea that evolved into my New Year’s Resolution was purely coincidental, a thought born out of boredom and a nagging desire to fill the cold post-holiday void known as January. My journey didn’t really begin until I realized that hiking this one trail I’d been wanting to explore for a while might only be the first chapter of a much bigger adventure.

Big Laurel Falls, one of many stunning sights along the hike to Virgin Falls in Tennessee, the trail where my 2018 New Year’s Resolution began

There’s no comprehensive way to quantify my hiking experience over the past twelve months, but I’ll give it my best shot: twenty-five previously unexplored trails, seven states, five mountain summits, dozens of waterfalls, a handful of caves, a few snakes, twenty or so alligators (yep, that happened), plus five incredible humans and two dogs who accompanied me on these assorted journeys. And that list barely scratches the surface.

While driving from Miami to Key West in March 2018, Andy and I took a detour to Everglades National Park, where we followed the Anhinga Trail through the heart of the swamp. Along this 1.5 mile trail, we saw about two dozen alligators, often with only a few yards and a patch of muddy grass separating us from them.

Words and numbers can’t capture the countless views that took my breath away, or the heart-pounding moments of intense exposure and narrow ledges that forced me to make a choice: confront my fear of heights and press on, or turn around and go home. I’m so grateful for every minute of this adventure and the value it added to my life in 2018, and one of my biggest triumphs is the fact that when presented with that choice, I never turned around and went home. I came close a few times, and there are a couple of hikes that I know I couldn’t have completed without support from my trail companions.

My friend, Megan, gave me the courage to shimmy across the smooth, vertical rock wall that led to the top of Cloud Splitter at Red River Gorge (and she went first to prove it wasn’t a death trap). Andy climbed the tallest peak in the Rocky Mountains with me, and for me, just because it was my birthday and I wanted to do it (one of many reasons why I’m marrying him). On my first new hike of 2018 at Virgin Falls, I was alone and slipped on a patch of ice, which sent me tumbling down a drop-off from the trail and into the dry creek bed below. A nameless stranger went out of his way to help me climb out and make sure I wasn’t seriously injured. Without that act of kindness, I may have abandoned this entire journey before it even began. I could go on and on about the support that’s carried me throughout this grand adventure.

the distant peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park, as viewed from the top of Green Mountain (8,150 ft) in Boulder, Colorado. I hiked to the top of this mountain in September 2018 via the Green Mountain West Trail

All of this brings me to the final chapter of my 2018 New Year’s Resolution. I didn’t climb a mountain or plan a trip to some remote wilderness on the other side of the country. I drove to Prentice Cooper State Forest, two hours southeast of Nashville and a short distance from Chattanooga. I didn’t learn about the trail to Snooper’s Rock until after Christmas, so not much planning went into my decision. But to be fair, not much planning went into my decision to start this journey in the first place, so it seems kind of appropriate.

The Cumberland Trail combines more than 200 miles of disjointed trail segments along the eastern border of Tennessee. My journey to and from Snooper’s Rock totaled 6 miles, though the namesake attraction is more easily accessible from a separate half-mile trail attached to a nearby parking lot. The section of trail that I hiked stretches along a high bluff, hundreds of feet above the Tennessee River, the same Tennessee River that runs through other parts of Tennessee, Alabama, and Kentucky before flowing into the Ohio River and eventually the Mississippi. For the most part, the trail runs close enough to the sharp edge of the bluff to expose panoramic views of the river below.

views across the Tennessee River Gorge from the Cumberland Trail approaching the overlook at Snooper’s Rock

There are many things that I enjoy about hiking in Tennessee during the colder months. Fewer people on the trails, much milder winter weather than the oppressive heat and humidity of summer, waterfalls and high rock walls adorned with hundreds of massive icicles, and enhanced visibility along trails due to the naked trees. My hike to Snooper’s Rock in late December checked all of these boxes. When I arrived at the small parking area beside the trailhead, there couldn’t have been more than five other cars in the lot. About half a mile into the journey, the trail descends through a staircase built into a crevice of a massive rock, which reminded me of the Stone Door at Savage Gulf (read more about that here), where I hiked in August 2018. Beyond this point, I only passed about six or eight other hikers on my way to Snooper’s Rock. Upon my arrival, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that I had the place all to myself, at least for a few minutes until two other people showed up.

the magnificent view from Snooper’s Rock, high above the Tennessee River Gorge and absolutely stunning, even on a cloudy day in December

Snooper’s Rock extends like a peninsula from the edge of the bluff, providing panoramic views of the Tennessee River Gorge below. The rock area is large, flat, and treeless, with ample space in the middle for visitors who want to keep a safe distance from the edge without diminishing the impact of the view. Of course, if you’re like me and prefer the adrenaline rush of standing inches from the edge of a high cliff (sorry, mom), there’s plenty of room for that as well.

Every time I have the opportunity to confront my innate fear of heights, I take it. I understand the risk, but in my lifetime, I know I’ll only explore a microscopic fraction of this world’s wild and beautiful places. Time, resources, and access all create barriers beyond my control. But a fear of heights? That’s internal, and it’s one of the few things I can control. Conquering this fear significantly increases my limited opportunity to see places that I’d otherwise never even consider. It’s not easy, but I’m overcoming it a step (closer to the edge) at a time. It takes practice, plus a willingness to accept overwhelming vulnerability and then fight to find comfort in it, while exercising extreme caution and common sense, of course. Sure, challenging my fear of heights could lead me to an early death, or it could lead me down a path that ends with climbing Mount Everest one day. Neither scenario is very likely, so odds are quite high that I’ll land somewhere in between, happy and blessed.

Yes, those feet are mine, extended over the edge of Snooper’s Rock, a few hundred feet about the bottom of the gorge. This is how I practice a thing I refer to as “heights tolerance”.

I knew long before this final new hike of 2018 that I’d carry this resolution over into 2019. This journey means more than an annual promise to me, and while I’m so proud of how it all unfolded last year, I’m even more excited about what the future holds. As I write this, on the last day of the first month of the new year (another delayed post, something I’ll do my best to improve on in 2019), I’ve already completed my first hike of the new year, at Mount Rainier National Park in Washington. This place is mesmerizing, even in January during a government shutdown, and I can’t wait to share that experience. I’ve got plenty of other big plans for new hikes in 2019, including San Diego for an extended business trip in March and Telluride for our wedding in July. Side note: Ecstatic doesn’t even begin to describe how I feel about marrying Andy in front of a small group of people we love and a big mountain backdrop.

the summit of Penobscot Mountain in Acadia National Park in Maine, May 2018, one of my favorite new hikes last year AND one of my favorite vacations yet with my soon-to-be husband

As I move into the next phase of this adventure, one thing remains abundantly clear: This journey is not about checking off locations on a map. It’s about setting aside time at least once a month to do something I love, something I can experience either by myself or with others who share my curiosity about nature. It’s less about the actual trails and more about the thrill of seeing something beautiful for the first time. That’s what inspired me in 2018, and it’s the fuel that’s keeping this fire burning in 2019.

So, cheers to 2019! if last year was any indication, this one’s going to be WILD .

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Percy Warner Park: Warner Woods Trail

It’s been a while since my new hike for November, so this post is long overdue. It’s New Year’s Day, and since Thanksgiving, I took three business trips and two weekend trips with friends, in addition to spending a week in New Orleans with my family over Christmas. In the middle of all of this, the best thing among so many other good things happened: I got engaged. In a sweet, private, beautiful moment, Andy created the most perfect and humbling reminder that my passion for adventure pales in comparison to the passion I have for the people who I call home.

Among the people who I call home, there’s also a dog (or two, maybe all of them). In November, for the first time since I began this journey, my very own fluffy companion joined me on a hike. Zoey, a husky/border collie mix, was active and energetic for the first several years of her life. In a heartbreaking stroke of bad luck, this otherwise healthy dog developed medical problems at age five and lost her sight as a result. Naturally, her personality has become much more cautious since then, and extended hikes on trails with rugged terrain would bring her more stress than joy. We still enjoy walks on the paved and mostly flat surfaces of our neighborhood, but finding a hiking trail that’s compatible with a blind dog isn’t easy. It’s not something that pulls up a lot of search results on Google (trust me, I tried), but we found a perfect gem in the Warner Woods trail at Percy Warner Park, conveniently located right here in Nashville.

my sweet Zoey, loving life on the Warner Woods trail in Nashville

I’ve visited Percy Warner Park many times, but prior to last month, the only trail I’d ever hiked there was the Mossy Ridge trail (pleasant scenery and an amazing workout for your thighs and glutes). The Warner Woods trail has been on my radar for a while, but it wasn’t a high priority until I realized that this could be an ideal opportunity to find a trail that Zoey and I might be able to enjoy on a regular basis.

The trail begins with a classic Nashville backdrop, one of few that doesn’t involve neon signs or generic murals. The expansive stone staircase climbing uphill through a canopy of trees to the trailhead attracts a lot of attention, because if there’s one thing both locals and visitors to Nashville love, it’s a good photo op. If you’re a blind dog, however, stairs are your kryptonite. Going up is easy after you figure out what’s happening, but going down requires some emotional support and coaching from your seeing eye human. Luckily, these stairs are broken into sections, separated by flat areas with grassy slopes on either side.

the old stone staircase that climbs the hill leading up to the Warner Woods trailhead

After ascending the staircase and reaching the trailhead, we started hiking counter clockwise along the Warner Woods trail, which forms a mild 2.5 mile loop through the scenic woodlands of Percy Warner Park. Aside from a few moderate slopes, the trail is mostly flat, wide, and appropriate for human and canine hikers across all fitness levels. Zoey and I hiked this trail on a cloudy Sunday afternoon and encountered many other hikers, but we still enjoyed plenty of moments of solitude, so the trail didn’t feel overcrowded. Zoey acted skeptical about the trail at first, frequently pushing her paw out into the air to ensure that we weren’t still climbing the stairs. She gradually gained confidence, and it didn’t take long for her to adapt to the unfamiliar surroundings.

Only a few leaves remained on the trees surrounding the Warner Woods trail in late November when we hiked here.

To be honest, I wasn’t sure how Zoey would react to the trail, and I was prepared to turn around and abort the mission at any time if the journey became more challenging than fun for her. That never happened. Zoey loved it, and I was one proud dog mama. We didn’t encounter many obstacles on the trail, like loose rock or roots that could make her trip, but when we did, we slowed down enough to allow her to test her footing and adjust accordingly.

In November, the weather was cool but not cold, which made hiking conditions ideal for both of us. The trees provide enough cover to convince me that this short trail wouldn’t be so bad in the summer months either. The trail’s natural beauty matches that of its more popular neighbor in Percy Warner Park, the Mossy Ridge trail, but provides a less physically demanding alternative for hikers who want to enjoy the park’s idyllic scenery without much effort.

holding onto my sweet girl who’s too distracted by the scents of nature to sit still for a photo

Although the Warner Woods trail doesn’t lead to a towering waterfall or expansive overlook, I’m more excited to revisit this one than any of the new hikes I’ve discovered this year. The Mossy Ridge trail’s rugged terrain would be too much for Zoey, and dogs aren’t allowed on the unpaved sections of trail at Radnor Lake. While there are many worthwhile paved trails throughout Nashville, Zoey and I prefer the raw feel of dirt beneath our feet. I’m so happy to have found a trail that we can enjoy together.

Since we’re already a day into 2019 (and I’m just now getting around to posting about my new hike from a month and a half ago), I’m excited to announce that I successfully completed my New Year’s Resolution for 2018. I won’t wait another month and half to share my experience on my final new hike of 2018, and it was a fantastic finish. I can confidently say that this journey has been one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. I’ll discuss the significance of this experience in more detail in my next post, but I decided a long time ago that this resolution was worth keeping for 2019. So, cheers to a new year full of new adventures, and I’m so very grateful for 2018 and all of its blessings.

Here’s a photo from one of my most memorable hikes in 2018, one that I haven’t mentioned on my blog because it was unfairly overshadowed by my summit of Mount Elbert. The twin peaks on right are Colorado’s infamous Maroon Bells, as photographed from the trailhead of the Crater Lake Trail
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Fiery Gizzard Trail to Raven’s Point

As much as I enjoy hiking with the people I love, there’s something empowering about tackling a new and challenging trail by myself. I frequently hike alone on trails I’m familiar with (Radnor Lake and Percy Warner Park offer access to amazing trails within the Nashville city limits), but I rarely embark on a solo hike on a previously unexplored trail. I’m not afraid to be by myself in the wild; I just usually prefer to have some company and love sharing new adventures with others who appreciate the experience as much as I do. Prior to last month’s hike at Fiery Gizzard, however, I’d only been alone on a new trail twice in 2018, and my bravery was at its peak after climbing Mount Elbert in September (pun intended, sorry about it).

Raven’s Point is the most expansive overlook on the trail, and luckily, I met another hiker here who was willing to take a photo of me.

The origins of Fiery Gizzard’s unique name are ambiguous and contested amongst Tennesseans, but locals unanimously agree on the trail’s status as one of the state’s most pristine hiking destinations. Located in South Cumberland State Park, the Fiery Gizzard Trail runs through a gorge only a dozen or so miles away from Savage Gulf, where I hiked in August. If you read that post, you may remember it as the place with all the snakes. Needless to say, I was acutely aware of this as I embarked on my hike at Fiery Gizzard, all by myself.

All things considered, I’d been looking forward to this trail for months, and I’d patiently waited to hike here until fall. I wanted to witness firsthand the accounts I’d heard about the magnificent colors of the changing leaves. Understandably, one rumor about the origins of Fiery Gizzard’s name credits the blazing fall colors. I planned this hike a week or so in advance, hoping that fall had arrived more quickly in the deep backwoods of southeast Tennessee than it had in Nashville. Unfortunately, it hadn’t. Despite this, I was grateful for the cooler temperatures and quickly realized that even without fall colors, every inch of this place radiates limitless natural beauty. 

the aptly named Blue Hole Falls, as viewed from the Grundy Day Loop

The route that I hiked, Fiery Gizzard to Raven’s Point, forms a double loop, starting with the Grundy Day Loop. From the Grundy Forest trailhead, the journey covers nearly ten miles of mostly strenuous hiking. As it was at Savage Gulf, the trail through the bottom of the gorge at Fiery Gizzard is extremely rocky and uneven, but the final stretch (before the trail reconnects with the Grundy Day Loop) runs along a mostly flat three-mile section of trail along the upper rim. In contrast with my hike at Savage Gulf, however, I saw many other hikers at Fiery Gizzard, on all sections of the trail. I passed other hikers frequently enough to feel like I wasn’t completely alone on the trail, but not often enough to lose the sense of blissful solitude that I’d intended to find.

The trail begins its descent quickly, leading down into the gorge and past enormous rock walls and several small waterfalls. Despite fairly dry weather in the days prior to my hike, plenty of water flowed through the creek, dancing around boulders and rushing over rock edges as it traveled down into the lower section of the gulf. The trail leads over a couple of wooden bridges, crossing a few smaller streams that eventually converge to form Fiery Gizzard Creek. Throughout the hike along the bottom of the gorge, Fiery Gizzard Creek flows parallel to the trail.

Fiery Gizzard Creek (flowing lightly on the right) runs parallel to the trail (moving upward on the left)

The most challenging portion of the trail stretches four miles from the intersection of the Grundy Day Loop and Fiery Gizzard Trail through the climb out of the gulf. This section resembles a game of connect the dots, where the uneven and often vaguely marked dirt path connects numerous boulder fields that hikers must scramble across in order to find the trail again. These boulder fields reminded me of the rocky terrain at the bottom of Savage Gulf, but more numerous and slightly more difficult to traverse. Because many of the rocks are loose, I often had to pause to evaluate the safest route forward or test my footing before putting my full weight on the next stone.

one of many extensive boulder fields along the bottom of Fiery Gizzard

Due to the constantly changing levels across the boulder fields, the next trail marker isn’t always clearly visible, so it’s easy to take a few steps in the wrong direction and end up exiting a boulder field with no trail in sight. I accidentally ventured away from the trail countless times, and then had to back track across the boulder field and start again. I never felt truly lost, luckily, and always managed to find my way again within a few minutes. One of the many advantages of hiking with a partner: Two sets of eyes looking from even marginally different angles are more likely spot a trail marker than a single set of eyes limited to one perspective. I wasn’t in a hurry, however, and I appreciate obscure trail markers because they aren’t a distraction from their unspoiled natural surroundings.

As with any hike through a gulf, getting out is tougher than getting in. After the final boulder field, the trail starts to rise and venture away from its comforting proximity to Fiery Gizzard Creek. A merciless series of switchbacks traverse upward and out of the gulf, but much to my surprise, I didn’t feel nearly as breathless on this part of the journey as I did during the very similar climb out of Savage Gulf. To be clear, it wasn’t easy – don’t underestimate this stretch if you ever find yourself on the Fiery Gizzard Trail. I exclusively credit my experience here to timing – the cooler October temperatures (compared to the blistering heat when I visited Savage Gulf in August) and my leftover strength after a rigorous training routine in preparation for Mount Elbert a month earlier. Regardless, when I reached the top of the gulf, my muscles ached but I didn’t need to stop and rest.

the final glimpse of Fiery Gizzard creek before the trail begins to climb out of the gulf

The dense forest along the short spur to Raven’s Point blocks any view of the gulf below until the trail abruptly ends at the overlook. The point extends sharply into the gulf, providing views from above across miles and miles of the gorgeous wilderness below. The views from Raven’s Point rival any I’ve seen on my various hikes along some of the most beautiful trails in Tennessee. The trees at the trail’s end provide enough cover to shade hikers from the sun’s glare, but they’re sparse enough to offer unobstructed views of the gulf on three sides. There’s no shortcut or alternative route that bypasses the tougher parts of the trail. Even the return trail along the rim becomes steep and difficult for a stretch before it reconnects with the Grundy Day Loop. As is usually the case though, the journey is worth the effort.

the panoramic view across the gorge from Raven’s Point

Although Savage Gulf and Fiery Gizzard each offer distinctly different and unique charms, it’s difficult to avoid comparing the two. Their close proximity to each other, the similarities in the terrain and level of difficulty, and the length of each trail are only a few of many reasons why hikers consider these to be similar hiking destinations. Only having hiked each trail once, Savage Gulf seemed more difficult to me, but again, this could be attributed to timing. Also, the return route along the rim at Savage Gulf offered more opportunities to take in views across the gorge than the one at Fiery Gizzard, which ventured through a dense woodland with few overlooks. In my humble opinion, however, the trail through the bottom of Fiery Gizzard, with the creek rushing alongside the trail, offers more aesthetic appeal than the section of trail running through the bottom of the Savage Gulf (and not just because I didn’t see any snakes at Fiery Gizzard).

In short, I’d encourage anyone who’s able to hike both trails and form their own opinions. As my mom would say when my brother and I would argue about which one of us was the “favorite” growing up, it’s not a competition. That’s one of the many things I love about exploring out in nature: even when presented with very similar options, no two places are exactly alike.

one more photo of the lush wilderness at the bottom of Fiery Gizzard

 

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Savage Gulf State Natural Area: Stone Door and Big Creek Gulf

For the past few weeks, I’ve been struggling to find the right words to tell the story of my hike through Savage Gulf last month. While each of the new hikes I’ve taken this year has had distinguishing features that make that trail unique in comparison to the others, mostly due to terrain or scenery, this one stands out for a few reasons unrelated to the spectacular views. In addition to claiming the title of 2018’s most challenging hike so far, this is the only hike I’ve taken this year that I wouldn’t feel comfortable revisiting alone. Although I’m becoming increasingly confident on my own in the wild, even on difficult or remote trails, I’m grateful that I didn’t attempt this one solo, for several reasons. You’ll learn more about those soon enough.

my hiking companions at Savage Gulf, Megan (human) and Maggie (fur baby)

Savage Gulf State Natural Area is immense, and home to multiple converging gulfs and more than 50 miles of trails along the rim and through the rocky depths below. Located in Grundy County, Tennessee (you know the place, where John Michael Montgomery found love with a ruby red lipped blonde at an auction), Savage Gulf is out there. To put it into perspective, we spent the second half of the two-hour journey to this destination on country back roads, two lanes (if that) and no cell signals.

We selected a combination of three trails: Stone Door, Big Creek Gulf, and Big Creek Rim. Recommended by my beloved hiking guide, AllTrails, this route forms a lollipop loop, covering nearly 10 miles of pristine wilderness along the rim of Savage Gulf and down through the dry creek bed at the bottom. With 1,500 feet of elevation change along the trail, most of which happens during brief segments of incredibly steep canyon walls, this one ain’t easy. However, Savage Gulf is considered by many as one of Tennessee’s premier destinations for back country hiking, and after my experience here, I wouldn’t argue against it.

Savage Gulf, breathtakingly stunning and wild

Our journey started on the Stone Door Trail, and easy one mile trek that provides access to several trailheads of more remote paths along and through the gulf. At the end of this trail, we encountered one of the area’s most expansive overlooks and the trail’s namesake feature, the Stone Door. A large split, 100 feet deep and as much as 15 feet wide in spots, separates a massive section of cliff from the gulf’s main rock wall. A narrow bridge crosses over the split and provides hikers with access to this area, which juts out into the gorge and offers panoramic views across Savage Gulf.

Savage Gulf as viewed from the overlook at the end of the Stone Door Trail

At the end of the Stone Door Trail, the path splits and offers hikers two options: the Big Creek Rim Trail on the right and the Big Creek Gulf Trail on the left. We opted for the latter, operating with the mentality that we’d tackle the more challenging trail first. These trails connect at opposite ends to form a loop, but I’d recommend hiking clockwise, as we did, or you’ll end this tough 7.5 mile stretch with a punishing uphill climb out of the canyon.

The initial descent on the Big Creek Gulf Trail drops more than 100 feet through the Stone Door, a fascinating passageway formed by the deep split beneath the bridge we crossed to access the overlook. Before our visit to Savage Gulf, I’d read about the amazing views we’d take in on our hike, but I came across little mention of Stone Door. I was expecting a relatively unsubstantial arch but felt thrilled and awestruck when I witnessed the magnitude of this colossal natural wonder.

Megan and Maggie making their way down the many steps of Stone Door

After we emerged from the bottom of the Stone Door, Megan and I quickly realized that our descent into the gulf had only just begun. We didn’t realize at the time, however, that the two hikers we passed traveling up through the Stone Door would be the last people we’d see until after we climbed back out of the gulf, four miles later. Solitude can be transcendent and invigorating on a hike, and while heavy crowds can ruin the natural ambiance, sometimes it’s reassuring to know that you aren’t totally alone in a remote wilderness. The lack of foot traffic we encountered on the Big Creek Gulf Trail made me wonder: If I were alone and became injured or lost, how long would it take for someone to  find me here? It sounds dramatic, but more experienced adventurers have run into trouble in less remote areas, so it’s hard not to think about the “what ifs”.

The terrain in the gulf is very uneven, as the path constantly leads up and down small inclines and over loose rock. Rainy weather had passed through the area the night before our hike and into the morning, so everything was wet. The bottom of the gulf receives little sunlight due to to the density of the forest rising above it, so we moved forward with caution, slipped a few times, but luckily avoided any injuries.

Maggie and I, taking a quick break on the rocky trail through the bottom of Savage Gulf

About half way through the Big Creek Gulf Trail, we encountered a spur trail to Greeter Falls. The sign didn’t indicate the amount of distance to the falls, which led us to believe that this would be a short detour. We decided to go for it and started down the path, which led across the vast dry creek bed that runs parallel to the main trail. The rocky creek bed was damp from the rain, but wide enough to create a significant break in the trees and allow sunlight to shine through. Maggie was off her leash at this point, because there weren’t any other hikers around and we thought she may enjoy cooling off in water if any had collected in the creek bed after the rain.

the expansive dry creek bed that we crossed on the way to Greeter Falls

Before we started across the creek bed, Megan casually said, “I’m surprised we haven’t seen any snakes on all these rocks, this seems like the kind of place where we’d see them”. Guess what happened next… A few short minutes later, we were half way across the creek bed and spotted two copperheads, coiled up together and watching us from a rock only a few feet away. Although we’d been looking out for snakes, we didn’t see these, because of the way they were positioned on the rock, until we’d already passed them. There’s no mistaking that they were copperheads, a venomous species with arrow-shaped heads and golden cat-like eyes.

We weren’t within striking distance, so we had no reason to be concerned for our own safety, but we knew that if Maggie noticed the snakes and went over to investigate, that probably wouldn’t end well. Plus, copperheads are known as social snakes, meaning that they tend to nest and move in groups. If you see one, there are probably more close by. We quickly put Maggie back on the leash and abandoned our detour to Greeter Falls.

Not long after returning to the main trail, we encountered a short path leading to a section of the creek bed that actually had water flowing through it. This little oasis provided a welcome stop for rest and rehydration during our journey across the otherwise dry bottom of the gulf. However, the water flowed against the direction in which we were headed, a clear indication that our long uphill journey out of the gulf was about to begin.

no snakes in this pleasant space (none that we could see, anyways)

Honestly, the climb out of the gulf was brutal. I wish I could say that scenery and stamina made it easy to push through, but this section of the trail was hard. The loose, rocky terrain that had presented a somewhat appealing challenge along the bottom of Savage Gulf transformed into a precarious balancing act as the gradient increased. We were so focused on the ascent that we barely had the capacity to take in the surrounding views. One thing that we did notice: another snake. Unlike the first two, this one was just a harmless garden snake, no more than a foot long and so still that Maggie didn’t notice it, even off the leash.

Shortly after emerging from the depths of Savage Gulf, the Big Creek Gulf Trail merges with the Big Creek Rim Trail, a flat and easy 3-mile path that provides multiple vantage points for panoramic views across the area. We stopped several times along this trail to gaze across the gulf and bask in the realization of the treacherous (but completely magnificent and worth every step) journey that we’d just experienced. Our hike through the bottom of the gulf, as incredible and wild as it was, involved significant risk and uncertainty that was absent along the rim.

Megan and Maggie, taking a break at one of the overlooks along the Big Creek Rim Trail

In conclusion, there wasn’t one specific thing that would prevent me from attempting this trek by myself, but a combination of several factors. Naturally my first venomous snake sighting on a hike this year plays a contributing role. Megan and I were so close to these snakes before we noticed them, despite the contrast between their copper coloring and the grey stone of the creek bed, which makes me wonder how many other snakes we passed without realizing it. Loose rocks cover the floor of the gulf and dominate the terrain on the trail, creating an ideal habitat for snakes.

Additionally, Megan and I hiked four miles through the bottom of the gulf without seeing any other signs of human life, and we both lost cell service before we’d even reached the parking lot. If either of us had been alone and something happened, like a snake bite or a debilitating fall on the slick, jagged terrain, hours could pass before anyone noticed.

Savage Gulf, early in our hike when the fog was heavy after the overnight rain

Despite all of this, Savage Gulf is one of the most untamed and idyllic places I’ve hiked through this year, in Tennessee or elsewhere. I’d go back in a heartbeat and highly recommend this area to anyone who wants to explore off the grid. Just remember to bring a friend, keep your eyes open, and don’t be afraid to get close to the edge.

front row views of Savage Gulf

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Window Cliffs and Burgess Falls

I never doubted that summer would be the most difficult season of my New Year’s Resolution. It’s not easy to find a trail close to home that isn’t fiercely hot at this time of year. And as much as I regret to admit it, I don’t have the resources, financial or otherwise, to travel to cooler hiking destinations outside of the Southeast once a month during the warm season . Maine provided a stellar escape from the southern heat for May, and I’ve got epic plans for September (I’m keeping my cards close to the chest on that one for now). My best alternative for the months in between: water, and not just the drinkable kind.

the gorgeous series of rapids located at the trailhead of the path to Burgess Falls

In previous posts, I’ve expressed my love for waterfalls at length, and I’ve been lucky enough to witness an assortment of these beauties on my hikes throughout the year so far (I highly recommend hiking at Virgin Falls and Fall Creek Falls, both in Tennessee). In hindsight, maybe I should have saved these trails for summer, because very few things in life are more refreshing than taking a dip in a creek or swimming hole on a hot day. Fortunately, Tennessee is loaded with trails that provide hikers with ample opportunity to get their feet wet.

Window Cliffs 

Window Cliffs State Natural Area, Tennessee

When looking for a new hike, I naturally start by asking people I know, but beyond that, my search begins at alltrails.com. I’m a big fan of AllTrails because this site enables users to share data from their own experience on different trails, and then organizes this information so that it’s easily searchable for those who may not know exactly what they’re looking for. Think of AllTrails as a version of Yelp for hikers, only with a lot less whining. I discovered Window Cliffs by searching through AllTrail’s listings for the top trails in Tennessee. After I read that this trail features nine creek crossings AND a waterfall, in addition to the namesake cliffs that look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book, I was sold.

My friend, Megan, came down from Louisville and joined me on this hike. She’s been a big part of my hiking journey to date (Old Rag Mountain in 2017 and Red River Gorge in 2018), and I felt excited to share this new hike with one of my closest friends (Plus, we had a lot of important things to talk about; it’s almost football season).

Megan, underneath this unnamed waterfall’s upper edge, Window Cliffs State Natural Area

One of the most challenging things about the Window Cliffs trail is finding it. Getting to this state park requires a journey down miles and miles of back roads, and you’ve got better odds of finding a unicorn in those woods than a cell signal. The last stretch of the drive leading to the park is actually a gravel path that runs through a privately owned farm. Although it feels like driving into the opening scene of a bad horror movie, the remote nature of this place is part of what makes it so appealing and special.

Window Cliffs is an out-and-back trail, which means that you turn around at the end point and hike out on the same route that brought you in. This essentially doubles the number of creek crossings, because the trail leads back across all nine of them again on the way out. I can’t speak to the water levels after significant rainfall, as the weather had been relatively dry during the week prior to my visit. Despite the lack of rain, only a couple of the creek crossings were dry, and walking through cold water so often throughout the hike brought welcome relief to our sweaty bodies and sore feet.

Each creek crossing is signed and numbered for reference. Here’s a glimpse of the expansive view across CC #3, one of the widest crossings on the trail.

All of the creek crossings are spread across about a mile or so of the middle section of the 2.75 mile trail to Window Cliffs, and this part of the path is fairly flat. However, the first and final sections of the trail, though short in distance, are relentlessly steep. This includes a sharp descent from the trailhead into the canyon and a steady climb to the top of the cliffs at the end of the trail. Along this upward climb, between the overlook across from the cliffs and the last section of the path that leads to the top, there’s a stunning (yet nameless, as far as I know) waterfall. By ducking underneath a railing beside this part of the trail, hikers willing to take a risk and venture away from the main trail can access an overgrown path down to the top of the falls. It’s a short journey that’s definitely worth the effort.

the gorgeous waterfall below Window Cliffs

After leaving the waterfall, we continued moving up the path that leads to the top of the cliffs. The trail doesn’t provide any view of the cliffs along this section, because of the dense forest, so we didn’t see them again until we’d reached the top. From there, the trail ends and the trees open up to reveal a narrow stretch of rocks that tower over the surrounding woodlands.

I wouldn’t advise anyone who’s uncomfortable with heights or exposure to climb up and over the rocks where the trail ends and venture out on top of the cliffs. The space is narrow, and the drop off on either side is completely vertical. However, if you’ve got the stomach for it, the views are magnificent in every direction, and unlike many of the hikes I’ve completed this year, the Window Cliffs trail isn’t widely known and receives few visitors. So, it’s likely that you’ll have the opportunity to enjoy the views from the top without anyone around to crowd the limited space or photo bomb your nature pics.

the jagged terrain on top of Window Cliffs, two hundred feet above the canyon’s floor

As with all trails that descend into a canyon, the hardest part of the hike isn’t going down, it’s coming back up on the way out. After nearly five miles of hiking under the blazing summer sun, we’d made it back across the trail’s first creek crossing. While the creek crossings provided sweet relief from the heat, hiking in wet shoes creates some serious blisters, which made the journey out of the canyon even more of a challenge.  But the only way out is up, so that’s the way we went. After we emerged at the trailhead, tired and sore but inspired by a truly unique hiking experience, we moved on to the day’s next adventure.

Where there’s a flat rock in a shallow creek, there’s a basic white girl doing this, and it’s probably me.

Burgess Falls

Located a short distance from Window Cliffs, Burgess Falls is a popular destination for hikers and casual visitors. Although I’d heard of this place, I never gave it much thought. Fall Creek Falls receives so much praise as the highest plunge waterfall east of the Mississippi River, and most would agree that Virgin Falls ranks among the best trails in the state. I can’t debate the height of Fall Creek Falls, and in my limited experience, I haven’t found a better waterfall destination hike in Tennessee than the trail to Virgin Falls.

However, if asked to share my humble opinion on the most beautiful waterfall in the state, based on the waterfall alone and not any associated hike, I wouldn’t hesitate to nominate Burgess Falls.

Burgess Falls cascades down over 130 feet of rock wall before crashing into the river below.

The moderate half-mile trail to Burgess Falls runs along Falling Water River, beginning at a stunning cluster of small rapids (pictured near the beginning of this post), a space that’s easily accessible for those who want to wade in and cool off. Watch your step though, as Megan and I spotted a small water snake here. Water snakes are harmless and non-aggressive, but as a child growing up in a small town in Mississippi, I learned that it’s best to treat any snake encountered in the wild like it’s venomous, so we maintained a safe distance.

Surprisingly, this was my first snake sighting on any of the hikes I’ve taken this year.

The short path to the park’s namesake waterfall packs in a lot of scenery, as the fast-flowing river stays in view throughout the hike. This scenery includes the hauntingly beautiful remains of an abandoned, decaying bridge, hanging ominously above the powerful water below. The level section of the trail ends at an overlook that provides a magnificent view of Burgess Falls from above, before taking a sharp descent downward and then onto the top of the falls.

Unfortunately, the final section of trail that leads down to the bottom of the falls was closed when we visited, due to damage from erosion. Although this unexpectedly cut our adventure at Burgess Falls short, I’d still say it was well worth the trip.

Megan and I, at the top of Burgess Falls

In conclusion, the day was full of firsts and unexpected new favorites. Window Cliffs has officially claimed the top spot in my book for a summer hike in Tennessee. I enjoyed it so much the first time that I’ve actually already been back. I coaxed a couple of friends from Nashville into joining me on my second hike at Window Cliffs, two weeks after my first one. As for Burgess Falls, that one left me speechless. If you have the opportunity to see it in person, do it. This special place is only 80 miles east of Nashville, and the trail requires little effort to reach a spectacular view of the falls.

On deck for July:  scorching heat and plenty of weirdness in Austin, Texas

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Fall Creek Falls State Park

Ever since my first hike of 2018 at Virgin Falls, I’ve been itching for another waterfall hike. I’ve always felt a fascination with waterfalls. There’s something majestic about the infinite motion of water cascading over a vertical rock face, always flowing and never stopping.

the signature attraction of my first (and coldest) hike of 2018, Virgin Falls, covered in hundreds of massive icicles

As the highest plunge waterfall (meaning the water drops vertically, losing contact with the rock surface) east of the Mississippi River, Fall Creek Falls has been on my bucket list for a while.  Fall Creek Falls State Park and the surrounding areas endured a torrential downpour of rain for several days before I visited the park. Disclaimer: Wet conditions present a serious challenge on any trail, and I’d advise hikers to proceed with caution when considering a hike that may be impacted by weather. With that in mind, however, the best time to visit a waterfall is shortly after significant rainfall, when the water flow is at its peak.

Park visitors can catch a spectacular view of Fall Creek Falls from an easily accessible overlook. And when I say easily accessible, I mean this overlook has a parking lot attached and a set of bathrooms, no hiking required. Honestly, this surprised me, but then again, Fall Creek Falls is the most visited state park in Tennessee. After seeing the falls in person, I can understand why a view like this, that requires minimal effort, attracts so many visitors.

The overlook provides an immaculate view of Fall Creek Falls, which always appears to be shrouded in mist, resulting from the forceful impact of falling water hitting the creek below.

My friend, Lexi, joined me on this adventure. After parking in the lot at the overlook, we started out onto the network of trails that runs along the cliffs surrounding Fall Creek Falls. We didn’t have to hike very far before it felt like the civilized overlook was far behind us. The trails are designed to provide ambitious hikers with multiple vantage points of Fall Creek Falls, as well as the area’s other waterfalls. The main trail, Fall Creek Falls and Cane Creek Falls, has many short spur trails that provide worthwhile detours to secluded overlooks with expansive views.

a breathtaking view of Fall Creek Falls from a small section of cliff accessible from a spur running off the main trail

Wanting to make the most of our day at Fall Creek Falls, and having plenty of time to do so, Lexi and I decided without much hesitation to explore all of the spur trails that we encountered. The main trail is a 2.5 mile loop, and all of the spurs are relatively short (the longest one measures less than a mile, round trip). To say the least, some of these spurs were more worthwhile than others, but each presented a unique journey to a view that we’d have otherwise missed.

We actually ventured down the first spur trail by mistake. We assumed that the first split in the trail was the beginning of the loop, and that hiking in either direction would eventually bring us back to this spot. We veered to the left and didn’t think twice about it until we’d hiked almost half a mile further and found ourselves scrambling over roots and boulders along the edge of a high and precipitous cliff, several hundred feet above the floor of the gorge.

The first spur trail ended on top of a jagged section of cliff, surrounded on three sides by stunning views of Fall Creek Falls and the surrounding scenery.

another spectacular view of the gorge from above, and the creek that flows away from the foot of Fall Creek Falls

After some very careful and very exposed navigation on the edge of the cliff, we realized that there was no route forward from where we were. However, this happy accident provided us with some of the best views of the day, so this side trip set the precedent for deciding whether or not to explore the other spur trails that we encountered later.

We made our way back to the main trail, which eventually led across a wobbly suspension bridge, about twenty feet above the fast flowing water that runs over the edge of Cane Creek Falls. Although Cane Creek Falls can’t compete with Fall Creek Falls in height, it far exceeds the park’s namesake waterfall in volume. Cane Creek Falls is actually responsible for carving out the gorge, therefore making it possible for Fall Creek Falls and the other waterfalls in the area to form and thrive over time.

Cane Creek Falls, as viewed from the landing adjacent to the suspension bridge, which allows hikers to cross over to the other side of the falls

Although you can’t see it from the angle shown in the picture above, Rockhouse Falls, another of the park’s plunge waterfalls, is located just a few hundred feet away from Cane Creek Falls and cascades over the same rock face. The trail that leads to the suspension bridge runs along the top of the ridge that faces these two waterfalls, granting hikers access to idyllic views of both from above.

At 125 feet tall, Rockhouse Falls is about 40 feet taller than its neighbor, Cane Creek Falls, but still only half as high as
Fall Creek Falls.

Lexi and I were lucky enough to see Rockhouse Falls and Cane Creek Falls from above AND from below, which brings me to our most exciting hike of the day: Cable Trail. “Exciting” is only one of many, many ways to describe our experience on this very short (but very dramatic) journey. When we initially reached the top of the cable, that first glimpse of the sharply downward trail to the banks of Cane Creek, at the foot of the waterfalls, sent waves of panic through my brain. I’d read that the Cable Trail was steep, but I didn’t expect it to be quite so intimidating.

This view of Cable Trail from half way down captures the severity of the trail’s the upper portion.

We were the only ones on the cable during our descent, so we didn’t have to worry about the potential domino effect of someone above us falling and taking us out with them on the way down. Hikers (or climbers, as that’s the more appropriate description) on this trail are definitely at the mercy of anyone above them on the cable. Because the cable isn’t within arm’s reach the entire time, we had to plan ahead to put ourselves in favorable positions as we made our way down to the bottom of the gorge.

Despite the lingering fear of slipping and falling, this was an exhilarating journey, and the reward was an intimately close view of Rockhouse Falls and Cane Creek Falls.

side by side view of Rockhouse Falls and Cane Creek Falls, from the bottom of Cable Trail

I’ve seen photos from other hikers who’ve completed this trek when the water level is much lower, which creates an opportunity walk out into the shallow water of Cane Creek for a closer view of the falls. Unfortunately, the creek was way too high and moving way too quickly for this to be an option for us. However, it’s very uncommon to catch a glimpse of these waterfalls flowing as heavily as they were when we saw them, and we were very lucky to experience this extraordinary view with no other people around.

taking a moment to celebrate this stunning view (and test my balancing skills)

In case you were wondering, the journey up the cable and back out of the gorge is even more challenging than the journey down. More importantly, it’s absolutely worth it, whether the falls are barely trickling over the edge of the cliff above or blasting at full force. That’s another thing I love about waterfalls: they’re constantly moving and therefore constantly changing. You can visit the same one a hundred times and witness something different every time.

Up next for May: a highly anticipated trip to Acadia National Park in Maine. I’ve heard great things and can’t stop daydreaming about what this place must look like in person. I’ve seen some amazing new places in 2018, each one more wild and beautiful than I could have imagined, so I’m sure this one will be full of surprises too.

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Harpeth River State Park: Hidden Lake Double Loop Trail and Narrows of the Harpeth

Short months mean short hikes. Right?

Seriously, I didn’t expect to have to improvise this early into my resolution , but as they say, everything happens for a reason. That reason in February: rain. Then more rain, followed by… you guessed it, RAIN. Compared to years past, Nashville and the surrounding areas received nearly three times the average amount of rainfall in February. Due to other obligations, a hike more than a day trip away from Nashville wasn’t realistic for me last month. So, I found myself approaching the second half of February, with only one dry weekend day left in forecast in the already short month.

And what a beautiful day it turned out to be.

Bluff Overlook Trail at Narrows of the Harpeth, Harpeth River State Park, Tennessee

I’d already ruled out several more strenuous hikes further away home, not willing to wade through mud and slip over perilous wet rocks for miles and miles when I can experience these trails in much better condition later in the year. So Fiery Gizzard, you’ll remain at the top of my list for Tennessee hikes in 2018 for at least one more month. In a scramble to find just one worthwhile hike close to home, on a trail that would still be relatively enjoyable despite wet conditions, I found two.

Harpeth River State Park, home to the Hidden Lake Double Loop Trail and the Bluff Overlook Trail at Narrows of the Harpeth, offers a pristine escape from the city. The park is only a 30 minute drive from downtown, or a 10 minute drive from the O’Charley’s in Bellevue, where I frequently meet my grandparents for lunch on Sundays.

After one of these Sunday lunches, my significant other and I drove out to the trailhead of our first hike, the Hidden Lake Double Loop Trail. Honestly, I didn’t have high expectations for this one. I’d never heard any friends or coworkers mention it, and the trailhead is only 1.5 miles away from  a perpetually busy section of I-40. Despite these details, it didn’t take long for me to realize that this trail is truly a hidden gem, and our Sunday afternoon here was absolutely well spent.

swampy conditions in the woods surrounding the Hidden Lake Double Loop Trail

The first section of the trail runs parallel to the Harpeth River, which was abnormally high and muddy when we visited, due to all of the recent rain. However, the sun was out on this day, and the trail was actually in better condition than I’d expected. This part of trail winds through a dense forest, before it eventually splits to form the narrow and rocky loop around the lake. We followed the path to the left at the fork, walking through the forest beneath a high bluff to the right of the trail before arriving at the lake.

While the vast majority of the lake is surrounded by steep bluffs, there’s a short spur off the main trail that leads down to the water’s edge.

There’s no view of the lake from the trail that leads there until you’re basically standing right in front of it, hence the name: Hidden Lake. The lake is small (the the entire loop around the lake runs about half of a mile), and it’s gorgeous. The trail ascends steadily from the spur that runs down to the water, so the loop around the lake provides a variety of scenic views from above. Along the way, there are plenty of opportunities to venture off the main trail  to explore the bluffs and take a closer look over the edge.

a view of Hidden Lake from the trail along the bluffs

Hidden Lake is pretty enough on its own to make the short journey worthwhile, but there’s more to this trail than the lake. After the trail loops around and starts to veer away from the lake, it runs past a series of abandoned, dilapidated buildings. Unexpected, right? This is the hike’s most unique feature. Despite the trail’s steady stream of foot traffic and relative proximity to civilization, these old structures have been left alone and mostly untouched, destined to decay on their own without much human interference. It’s oddly peaceful and nostalgic.

the eerie view approaching one of the decaying buildings along the trail

the remains of a home, sharing space with the plant life that’s grown up through its rooms over time

an abandoned shed in the woods close to the trail

Soon after passing the abandoned buildings, the loop reconnects with the main trail and leads down the bluff and back out to the trailhead. We completed the 2-mile round trip hike in about an hour and a half. It’d be easy to finish this hike in less time if you don’t veer off the main trail or stop to take in the scenery, but where’s the fun in that? Take your time with this one. It’s worth it.

After leaving the Hidden Lake Double Loop Trail, we took the scenic drive over to Narrows of the Harpeth, about 15 minutes away. Harpeth River State Park is surprisingly large, and these two trailheads aren’t within walking distance of each other. We set out on the Bluff Overlook Trail, which can barely be considered a hike because the total distance from the parking lot to the overlook and back is less than a mile. Unsurprisingly, the hike to the overlook is mostly an uphill journey.

Bluff Overlook Trail at Narrows of the Harpeth

As the trail climbs, the view of the surrounding scenery below expands, and the Harpeth River flows on either side. As the name implies, Narrows of the Harpeth is a small sliver of land wedged in between two sections of the river that are joined by a sharp bend. The overlook rises about 200 feet above the river, offering a panoramic view across miles of rolling hills, forests, and wetlands.

The absence of trees at the edge of the bluff’s highest point provides an unobstructed view of the scenery below.

view of the Harpeth River from the edge of the overlook

This trail was more crowded than the one to Hidden Lake, so I’d recommend going early if you’re interested in making this journey. The bluff faces east, so I’m certain that the overlook would provide a stunning spot to watch a sunrise on a clear day.

Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon at Harpeth River State Park. Both of the trails that we hiked offer quick access to beautiful and unique scenery, without requiring much effort. We encountered hikers of all ages and apparent skill levels, and everyone seemed genuinely happy to be there, soaking up the afternoon sunshine during  a much needed break from the rain.

Up next for me: a St. Patrick’s Day weekend overnight hike at Red River Gorge in eastern Kentucky with one of my closest friends. This one’s been on my adventure bucket list for a while, and although it’s an intimidating hike (with some alleged rock climbing), I can’t wait to get out there.